i like a good high tide, but this is crazy!!!

...the backwash at grandview has been a little tough lately.
this is 1-2' with an occasional 12' backwash!
i think its safe to say he didnt make the drop...

Stormy daze...glad its over.

5ft board on a 10ft face...with a nasty side wind. not as fun as it shoulda' been...

Todos Santos - Road trip - 1.11.10...

green perfection!

So Tuesday afternoon, as im walking through home depot picking out some materials for the shop, i get a call from Larry. he says its firing down south and that he had reserved a boat for us for tomorrow!... "what?...yer' kidding right? where?" he then proceeds to tell me that its gonna hit Todos Santos on weds, and its gonna be HUGE!!!..."Holy S%#T!!! its on!!!!"

So this is the documentation of our trip. we brought along our videographer Justin , so we could get some video footage for the next arena movie. I had my camera with me as well so i took these shots from the boat when i was done surfing. there were a lot of big names out there and some serious waves. Greg long, mike parsons, alex gray and a couple other big wave heroes. i was so amped to be out there shoulder to shoulder with these guys and the shear energy in the water was unfathomable! I was on an insane 6'9" NIRVANA gun which was too small to paddle into the bigger sets, but it was awsome once I got down the face. most of the guys were on 9'6" to 11'0" ft. boards. I got my fair share of waves, but it was a little more challenging being on a shorter stick. but once I got the hang of where to sit, and where to position my feet, it was insane! I was in heaven! BY FAR THE BIGGEST WAVES OF MY LIFE! I will post more as it arrives! so sit back and enjoy the ride!

Mexican border at 7am

amazing sunrise!

ensenada bay...

sketchy boat rentals.

yeah...it was big.

sheet glass conditions!

aquatic paparazzi!!

the swell just got bigger and bigger!!!

surfed out, sunburnt, hungry and grinning from ear to ear!!!

before: fresh 6'9"...this should work. right?

after: OH MY GOD! sweet board....wrong size! wheres my 9'6"at!? ! but once i got into the
waves, they were manageable...barely. it was like being chased by a bull while pedaling a tricycle!

THANK YOU MEXICO!

5'7" twin stringer- tri/quad-kelly inspired...

thanks roy!

many options.

journey to 500!...its finally complete!

those of you who are loyal enough and patient enough to follow
my patchy and inconsistent blog, know that i was on a mission to surf 500 sessions
within one calender year. from jan 1st 2009 to dec 31st 2010. it was more than a mission! it was almost torture at certain points. but it was worth every paddle , every stormy,
rainy day when my body said HELL NO! and my heart said C'MON, ITS ONLY PAIN, WHATS THE BIG DEAL! through fevers, dirty waters, and beyond howling winds, i conquered
my goal! as a matter of fact i did better than that, i hit 501!
but i must say, out of 365 days i did miss about 7 days in total due to
random reasons out of my control. this however made me realise that it would of actually been harder to surf once EVERY single day and not miss one, than to surf 500 times...