Monday, November 16, 2009



ANOTHER BIT OF INSPIRATION FROM KELLY...
IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN, THEN YOU WILL RECOGNIZE THE 
BOARD, WITH SOME PERSONAL TWEAKS OF MY OWN.
5'7" TWIN STRINGER
ALL I CAN SAY IS THAT I AM SO AMPED TO SEE HOW THIS THING PERFORMS,
SINGLE CONCAVE WITH A TOUCH OF V- IN THE TAIL...
OH MY!
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FOR THOSE STILL INTERESTED...
IM @ SESSION# 426 
AS OF 11/16/09...
IM CUTTING IT CLOSE! I KNOW!
500 OR BUST!

Sunday, September 20, 2009

WHAT I'M...I MEAN WE, ARE RIDING...

FINALLY GOT OUR COLLABORATIVE BOARD GLASSED 
WITH WOODEN FINS AND A BITCHIN' ART DECORE,
 LAUREN AND I HAVE BEEN SO STOKED TO GET SOME 
WAVE TIME ON THIS THING AND IT IS AWSOME!!!!
WE BOTH ARE AMAZED BY THIS BOARD...
PROBLY' CAUSE ITS GOT GOOD JUJU!
.

HAND SHAPED BY ROY SANCHEZ AND 
PAINTED BY LAUREN AND I,  IT HAS PROVEN TO BE
A WELL ROUNDED BOARD! IT ACTUALLY RIDES BETTER
THAN I WOULD OF GUESSED! IT SEEMES TO LIKE AIRIALS,
BELIEVE IT OR NOT!...

MORE PICS TO COME!!!
MAYBE EVEN SOME VIDEO...
...

FOR THOSE WHO ARE INTERESTED,
 THE  500 SESSION COUNT IS AT #362...

Friday, August 28, 2009

KNOW WHEN TO SAY WHEN...

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AT WHAT POINT DO YOU SAY :ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!?
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FOR ME, THREE IS FAMILIAR, FOUR IS FUN & FIVE IS FRISKY...
BUT THIS IS JUST INSANE!
I BET THE OCTA-MOM WOULD ENJOY THIS ONE!
SURFS UP!




Monday, August 24, 2009

.......SURFING THE POWER OF MENTAL STRENGTH THROUGH ENLIGHTENMENT AND SPIRITUAL ENERGY

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ITS PRETTY AMAZING SOMETIMES,
 WHEN WE FIND OURSELVES QUESTIONING AND STRESSING
 OVER THE PERILS OF LIFE, 
HOW WE LET IT EFFECT US NEGATIVELY,
 AND HOW WE TRY TO CONTROL TOO MUCH OF IT.

IVE RECENTLY RE-DISCOVERED THE POWER OF JUST 
LETTING GO, AND HOW IT FREE'S YOUR MIND AND SPIRIT.

THROUGH FORMS OF PRAYER, MEDITATION, QI GONG, 
FALUN DAFA, AND OF COURSE TAI CHI I HAVE OPENED UP NEW 
AVENUES OF MY BEING, AND DISCOVERED WHAT THE MIND
 IS ACTUALLY CAPABLE OF OVERCOMING.

SOMETIMES ITS EASY TO LET OUR EGO
 GET IN THE WAY OF OUR LIVES AND OUR DREAMS
AND EVEN OUR DAILY FUNCTIONS...

 FOR ME WHEN THIS HAPPENS, I FEEL AS IF
IM LOSING CONTROL, SO I TRY TO CONTROL IT MORE,
WHICH MAKES EVERYTHING WORSE.
(WITH EXCEPTION TO WHAT I AM INTENDED TO CONTROL)

 TO ME, THAT IS WHAT CREATES INNER TENSION, 
INSECURITIES, AND THE NEED TO NUMB OR PACIFY 
 WITH DEFENSIVE THOUGHTS AND ACTIONS OF 
THE MIND THAT ARE CLEARLY NOT POSITIVE.

FREEDOM OF THE MIND, AND A CLEAR MENTAL STATE
IS MORE POWERFUL THAN ANY PHYSICAL ABILITY.
 MORE EMPOWERING THAN ALL THE MONEY IN THE WORLD, 
AND THE PUREST FORM OF HAPPINESS.

IT HAS CHANGED THE WAY I VIEW SURFING AND WHAT IT MEANS TO ME.
WHETHER IT HAS IMPROVED MY SURFING, I DONT KNOW.
BUT I DO KNOW THAT I ACTUALLY ENJOY IT ALOT MORE!

I BELIEVE EVERYONE DESERVES TO FIND THERE OWN FORM OF 
FREEDOM FROM SOCIETY AND PRESSURES OF
OUR OWN INNER EGO.

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SO TO THIS I GIVE THANKS TO ALL THE HIGHER FORMS OF BEING,
WHETHER IT BE SPIRITUAL, ALIGNMENT OF HUMAN ENERGIES,
 THE POWER OF THE UNIVERSE, OR ALL OF THE ABOVE.


Saturday, August 22, 2009

LAURENS NEXT VENTURE: "@SEA" FASHIONS! SO COOL! YOU HAVE TO SEE THEM IN PERSON!


HOT OFF THE PRESS! 
HANDMADE CUSTOM ONE OF A KIND SURF T'S!
GUYS, GIRLS, AND KIDS AS WELL!
LONG BOARD, SHORTBOARD, RETRO-FISH,
OLD SKOOL KEELS, 
EVEN A MERMAID!

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

SESSION#309...NEW APEX BOARD IS AMAZING!

...finally a new post! it's been a while.
and to the very few of you who are loyal enough 
follow this blog, sorry...i've been distracted. thanks for  
not kicking me off the list
session#309 of 500...
less than 140 days left.

This is the new sled...
I love it!...
My latest design,
Shaped by ROY SANCHEZ...
I call it the "APEX"...

hidden volume,
 low rocker,
performance rails,
7.25" square tail...
just beautiful!


5'10" x 14.5" x 20" 16" x 2.5"...
in less than a week of testing,
 ive come to the conclusion that 
 this is my favorite design so far!

stay tuned for a short vid of this board in action.
or you can go to:
loop'd.com/members/maverik51

let me know what you think!!!
-peace...-e...

Friday, July 10, 2009

SESSION: #246 - THE STREAK CONTINUES: STEADY AS SHE GOES... P.S.- WATCH OUT FOR LARGE FLYING STINGRAYS!


WHILE SURFING AT AVO, I WAS GLANCED BY A LARGE ANGRY STING RAY WHO CAME TO THE SURFACE WHILE I WAS SITTING ON THE OUTSIDE. NOW, IVE BEEN HIT 3 TIMES BY SMALL RAYS (ONLY ON THE INSIDE) AND IT IS DEFINATLY ONE OF THE WORST PAINS I HAVE EVER FELT. SO YOU CAN IMAGINE MY GASP AS  I SEE THIS THING CHARGE TOWARDS ME AT MACH 1. AS IT GOT CLOSER, MY "EL GATO"LIKE  REFLEX TOLD ME TO PULL UP MY FEET, AND AS I DID, THE LITTLE BUGGER BROKE THE SURFACE AND PITCHED OFF TO THE LEFT OF MY LEG AND ARM. SCARY. I GOT A PRETTY GOOD LOOK AT IT. IT WAS THICK AND WIDE! APROX 2FT. WIDE AND THE THING MUST HAVE BEEN AT LEAST 4" THICK!
ALL IN ALL, NO HARM NO FOUL.

THE FUNNY THING WAS,  ABOUT 10 MINUTES LATER, I HAPPEN TO SEE A BIG SPOTTED SEAL WITH A RAY IN ITS MOUTH, MOTORING BACK OUT WITH ITS HEAD ABOVE WATER.  SOMETHING I HAD NEVER SEEN BEFORE!  NOW I DONT HOLD A GRUDGE AGAINST THE RAY FOR THE HASTY FLY BY THREAT, AFTER ALL IM IN HIS HOUSE. BUT IT DOES SEEM LIKE A LITTLE POETIC JUSTICE THAT THE SEAL WAS HUNTING THE RAY'S... THANKS MR. SEAL.

...thankyou doctor evil.


Thursday, June 4, 2009

5'6"x20"x2.5"...due next week. ...E - TYPE...

    This, my friends,  is a rendering of my new shape by roy sanchez. i call it the "e-type". Ive been riding a 5'9" "roi fish" lately, and roy and i decided to work on  a quarky design i  had in my head. It turned out awsome. a little influence from the k. slates, with crafting in the hands of roy,  and a little hydrophysic's  formulative theory  on my part...it became a reality...enjoy!

SESSION #194...PUNCTURED CALF MUSCLE,  BUT IM STILL IN THE GAME!... THANKYOU DUCT TAPE!

Friday, May 22, 2009

"ROI FISH" new board review..+session: #185...


    I CANT BELIEVE  HOW THINGS FALL INTO PLACE SOMETIMES...  THIS WAS ACTUALLY SHAPED FOR A FREIND, AND IT HAD MISSING GRAPHICS SO ROY MADE ANOTHER ONE AND GAVE THIS ONE TO ME. I THOUGHT IT WAS GOING TO BE ANOTHER FISH, DRAWN OUT LINES, 4" ABOVE THE WATER WITH MORE FOAM THAN I COULD EVER NEED. YOU KNOW, A TYPICAL RETRO TWIN OUTLINE RIGHT!? 

  I WAS VERY WRONG! THIS THING IS SICK!!!!!!!!! IT TOTALY EFFIN' SHREDS! LOOK HOW THIN IT IS. I RODE IT LIKE A SHORTY WHIP CRACKER AND IT RESPONDED WITH SUCH GREAT FEED BACK AND SPEED! CLEARING THE LONGEST SECTIONS AND STILL TOTALLY CAPABLE OF BIG AIRS AND BLOWOUT TAILSLIDES...NOT ONLY THAT, BUT IT HANDLES POWER AND SIZE REALLY WELL! A TUBE SLIDER FOR SURE!! GOOD JOB ROY!

  I  AM BLOWN AWAY BY THE CAPABILITIES OF THIS BOARD AND THE FUTURE POTENTIAL OF THIS BOARD.  WITH SUBLTE CHANGES, IT COULD BE  A NEAR PERFECTLY BALANCED AND UNIVERSAL BOARDS.  THE ZEN BOARD, A HIGH PERFORMANCE CRAFT THAT MAKES YOU LOOK AT WAVES OF ALL SIZES DIFFERENTLY. IT MAY LOOK LIKE ANOTHER "POD" OR "BISCUIT" STYLE, BUT THERE IS SOMETHING VERY DIFFERENT ABOUT THIS STICK...



  

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

TWO CRAZY DOGS AND A BLONDE...

THIS SHOT TO ME SAYS ALOT! THESE GUYS ARE MY LIFE AND ALMOST EVERY THING I LIVE FOR (EXCEPT THE SPIRIT OF SURFING), AND YET THEY ARE SOOOOO CRAZY! AND I MEAN ALL THREE OF THEM!...NOT JUST THE DOGS. THESE ARE TWO OF THE BEST DOGS IVE EVER OWNED! BY FAR! POUND-RESCUE PUPPIES.   PETEY IS THE BLUE NOSE STAFFIE AND GIDGET IS THE RED NOSE PIT/LAB/RODESION MIX (and the craziest one), BUT THEY KEEP ME SANE AND GROUNDED. ITS AMAZING SOMETIMES HOW THE LITTLE THINGS IN LIFE REALLY OUTWEIGH EVERYTHING THAT SOCIETY HAS PUT A PRESSURED INFLUENCE ON... 

SESSION POST# 176 - Beacons...again...eh. surfed with logan. he rips. makes me wish i was 11 again...

SUMMERTIME...BRING ON THE ZOO!

I CAME ACROSS THIS PICTURE FROM LAST SUMMER, AND IT MADE REMEMBER WHAT COMPLETE KAOS IT CAN BE AND HOW CATCHING ONE WAVE CAN REALLY BE A CHALLENGE AT CERTAIN TIMES...LIKE THIS. 

I GUESS ITS A FORM OF SURF SLALOM RIGHT?...BOB AND WEEVE. BOB AND WEEVE.  NOW QUICK, GO UP FOR A FLOATER!

SESSION POST# 175...I know that i dont post every one, but they are accounted for.

Beacons, beacons, beacons. I cant seem to get away from it. hasnt been that good, i just dont feel like going anywhere else...i think im just lazy. no waves anyway. 

Monday, May 11, 2009

ERGONOMIC DESIGN...NO NEED FOR SILLY POCKETS!

IM GONNA GO OUT ON A LIMB HERE,  AND SAY THAT I THINK THIS COULD REVOLUTIONIZE HANDS FREE TALKING WHILE DRIVING! THINK OF ALL THE OTHER THE POSSIBILITIES AS WELL. THESE HOOPS CAN HOLD ANYTHING! I-PODS, GROCERY LIST, WALLET, SMALL CAT OR KITTEN, EVEN A SPARE BAR OF WAX WHILE YOU SURF! THEY SHRINK AND STRETCH AS NEEDED TO FIT ANY CARRY ON ITEM!

WAY TO THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX! ALTERNATIVE RESOURCES ROCK! I CANT WAIT TO SEE THE NEW BUILT-IN MARSUPIAL LAP TOP- POUCH!

IN OTHER NEWS:
 SESSION: #174...IN THE BOOKS.- I CAN TASTE SUMMER IN THE WATER! -STILL LOVIN' MY NEW SANCHEZ STICK, AND ALL IS WELL IN SURFALOTAPALOOZAVILLE!

Friday, May 8, 2009


session#170...todays menu offered textured faces with a nasty crosschop- 3'-5', warmer waters, grayish windy sky's, harsh current and NO CROWD's...no complaints:)

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

CREATIVE DYNAMICS @ WORK!

SESSION #166 OF 500...NEW BOARDS= NEW PEACE OF MIND...


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TOO MUCH TIME...

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

SESSION: #101-157...THE VALUE OF A SIMPLE LIFE...




HOLY MOLY...

  ONCE AGAIN, TIME HAS SLIPPED BY SO QUICKLY. IVE BEEN LOGGING MY SESSIONS VIA MOLE SKIN JOURNAL AND IVE SEEM TO HAVE HAD NO TIME TO POST ONLINE. IM NOT SLIPPIN' OR TRIPPIN' AS FAR AS LEGITIMATE TIME IN THE WATER SO KEEP IN MIND , THIS IS DEFINATLY REAL AND ACCURATE.

 IVE MISSED A COUPLE DAYS BUT MADE UP FOR IT WITH MANY OTHER DOUBLE SESSION DAYS. IN THE LAST MONTH THERE HAS BEEN SOME FUN WAVES AND SOME VERY POOPY DAYS, BUT AT THE END OF EACH OF THOSE DAYS I STILL FIND SUCH APRECIATION AND LOVE FOR THE OCEAN AND JUST LIFE IN GENERAL. 
   THIS JOURNEY HAS BEEN AWSOME! THE LAST 4 MONTHS OF DOCUMENTING THIS HAS BEEN VERY EYE OPENING FOR ME.  NOT LIFE CHANGING, BUT IT HELPED ME TO SLOW THINGS DOWN IN THE RIGHT PLACES AND MOVE FORWARD IN OTHER DIRECTIONS THAT I WOULDN'T OF IF I DIDNT HAVE SUCH A BIG PASSION FOR THE OCEAN AND HOW MANY WONDERFUL THINGS YOU GAIN FROM IT. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT  HELPS YOU TAKE A DIFFERENT APPROACH AND VIEW TO LIFE ON LAND! THE DAILY GRIND GETS US DOWN AND HAS US FIGHTING FOR SURVIVAL, THUS SACRIFICING OUR FREE TIME AND ULTIMATELY DAMPENING OUR SPIRITS. AT LEAST UNTILL THE NEXT PASAGE OF FREEDOM TO THE OCEAN, OR WHATEVER YOUR OUTLET IS....MINE IS THE OCEAN, AND EVEN IF I DONT HAVE A BOARD, IT STILL SOOTHES ME AND CREATES AN AVENUE FOR MY PERSONAL SERENITY. I HOPE EVERYONE HAS A PLACE THAT THEY CAN ESCAPE FROM THE STRESS OF DAILY LIFE IN THIS BIG WORLD WE LIVE IN...

  ANYWAY, TO THE SESSION POST'S: 

 IT'S NOW SESSION #157 NOT TOO MUCH TO SAY ABOUT THE PAST 56 SESSIONS. NO BIG SWELLS BUT NOT TOO MANY TOTALY FLAT DAYS EITHER, SO I GUESS YOU COULD SAY THAT ITS BEEN AVERAGE. 

  THE WATER GOT WARM FOR A COUPLE DAYS AND THEN IT GOT COLD AGAIN. WE HAD ONE OR TWO DAYS OF SUPER FUN SOUTHIES, BUT ALL IN ALL, I WOULDNT TRADE IT FOR ANYTHING!...EXCEPT MAYBE A ONE WAY TICKET TO AN ISLAND THE SOUTH PACIFIC, WITH PLENTY OF WAVES AND PLENTY OF FISH!... AND BEER!... AND FREINDS! AND...WELL, MAYBE I ALREADY LIVE IN PARADISE. YEP I DO!...LIVING, LOVING, LAUGHING AND SHARING IS WHAT MAKES MY PARADISE! ALL THE REST CAN BE ACCOMMODATED AT THE APPROPRIATE TIMES. FOR NOW, JUST SURFING EVERYDAY AND BEING HAPPY IS WHAT I AM THANKFUL FOR. MEETING NEW PEOPLE AND NETWORKING WITH PEOPLE THAT LIVE THE SAME WAY HELPS ME MOVE FORWARD IN MY AMBITION TO STAY FOCUSED ON THIS WAY OF LIFE...

  


Thursday, March 26, 2009

SESSION: #100-124 OF 500...





  SO HERE IT IS, A NEW POSTING. ITS TAKEN ME LONG ENOUGH BUT I MUSTARD UP THE ENERGY TO POST!...






FIRST OFF, SESSION #100:
   ...IT WAS ACTUALLY A SPECIAL ONE. I VENTURED DOWN TO BLACKS ON A SINGLE FIN RETRO THAT I HAD REFURBISHED FOR MY FRIEND ED. NOT BAD FOR THE FIRST 100! IT WAS WORTH IT! 2-4 FT. AND NOT TOO CROWDED...TO SAY THE LEAST, THE BOARD WORKED GREAT!


SESSIONS #101-109: 
    NOTHING SPECIAL...LOCAL, SMALL...EH...
 

 SESSION #110:
     ODD...I WAS ENLISTED BY MY LOCAL SHOP OWNER TO TEST OUT A NEW BOARD TO SEE IF THEY WERE WORTH CARRYING IN THE SHOP...TO SAY THE LEAST THE BOARD WAS DIFFERENT. IT WAS A MEYERHOFFER DESIGNED LONGBOARD. SHAPED LIKE A FIGURE 8! IT WAS WEIRD LOOKING, BUT IT WAS ACTUALLY REALLY SICK! IF YOU COULD RIDE IT WITHOUT BEING DISTRACTED BY THE SHAPE, IT WAS AWSOME!...


  
SESSIONS #111-121:
     AGAIN, NOTHING SPECIAL...I KEPT IT LOCAL BETWEEN GRANDVIEW AND ROUND HOUSE WITH THE OCCATIONAL BEACS IN THE MIX...
 
 
SESSION #122:
     BONEYARDS!...WOO HOO! I LOVE THIS PLACE! I MISS LIVING NEAR THERE BECAUSE LAUREN AND I HAVE HAD SO MANY GREAT MEMORIES THERE. IT WAS NICE TO BE BACK OUT AT THE YARD...

  
 SESSIONS #123-124:
   BLAH BLAH...SAME SHIT DIFFERENT DAY, 2-3 FT., SPRING BREAK CROWD, A LITTLE WINDY BUT STILL NO COMPLAINTS!

     
ILL HAVE MORE COMING SOON, I WONT LET IT GET OUT OF HAND AGAIN, I HOPE!



Tuesday, March 3, 2009

SESSION: #93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, & 99 OF 500...THIS IS A LOT'A WORK!

THIS IS MY SPEED BLOGGING POST!
IVE BEEN VERY BUSY,
 SO HERE IT IS IN A NUT SHELL...

SESSION #99...FUN!



SESSION #98...FUN!

SESSION# 97...FUN!


SESSION #96...FUN!


SESSION #95...FUN!




SESSION #94...FUN!



SESSION #93...FUN!
FOR MORE INFO, STAT TUNED...
I WILL UDATE THESE POSTS WITH MORE DETAIL
AS I FREE UP SOME TIME.



Friday, February 27, 2009

SESSION: #92 OF 500





LOCATION.................G. TO THE VIEW
WAVES....................REALLY FUN 3'+
WATER........................4X3...COLD
AIR...................... GREY, BUT CALM
PADDLE TIME......................7:45am
CO-PILOT.......................ED LEWIS

    MAN O' MAN... ITS BEEN FUN THE LAST COUPLE OF DAYS! LOTS OF WAVES, GOOD DIRECTION, PEAKY, MINIMAL CROWDS...LOVE IT!

     STILL MURKY GRANDVIEW ISSUES THOUGH...I STILL DONT KNOW THE DANGER OR HAZARD OF THE MUD STEW, BUT I CERTAINLY HOPE I DONT GET SICK BEFORE THEY DECIDE TO WARN US!!!!!!!!! 

     TIME FOR CHEM SUIT AND ORIFICE PLUGS, I THINK I'LL BORROW ED'S...J/K!



SESSION: #91 OF 500




LOCATION.............BEACONS
WAVES...........SUPER FUN 3'-4'
WATER.........NO COMPLAINTS!
AIR............CLEAR & CLEAN
PADDLE TIME............3:20pm
CO-PILOT...............LUCAS FOSTER

   WHAT A SICK SESSION!...I RODE MY LONG BOARD AGAIN AND PROCEEDED TO PICK OFF ALMOST EVERY SET, TO THE DISMAY OF THE SOUTH PEAK CROWD. I GAVE A CLINIC ON HOW TO RIDE A LONGBOARD LIKE A SHORT BOARD! THEY HATED IT!

     ...I DONT FEEL BAD THOUGH, EVERY OTHER DAY OF THE WEEK IM ON A 5'10 FIGHTING LOGGERS. SO TODAY, ALL "ISH" TALKERS THAT HOG WAVES ON  OVERLY BOYANT OLD BARNEY TANKERS CAN TAKE A HIKE IF THEY DONT LIKE A TASTE OF THEIR OWN MEDICINE! IF YOU RIDE A LONG BOARD SHARE...OR IT WILL COME BACK TO BITE YOU!!!


Thursday, February 26, 2009

SESSION: #90 OF 500

W.T.F. IS THORIUM!?...
IS THAT YER' FINAL ANSWER?...

LOCATION..............GRAND SPEIW
WAVES.......................................2'-4'+
WATER....MUDDY ORANGE SILT
AIR.......................................CHILLY!
PADDLE TIME......................8:41am
CO-PILOT.......................................ED

 WOO HOO!...WERE IN THE 90's! 

100 IS GOING TO BE HERE BEFORE MARCH POSSIBLY! 

   FUN DAY AT G.VIEW, BOWLEY LITTLE INSIDERS WITH A COUPLE OF SETS THAT ROLLED THROUGH EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE. THE WATER WAS GROSS! ALL THE SAND DUMPING OR "REPLENISHING" AS THEY CALL IT HAS CAST A DARK ORANGE SILT INTO THE WATER MAKING IT LOOK AS IF IT WERE MUD! NOT COOL!...THEY SAY ITS FINE BUT I DONT KNOW HOW TRUE THAT REALLY IS. HAS ANYONE TESTED THIS STUFF?...HELLO? 

SESSION: #89 OF 500




LOCATION..........THE BEAC'S
WAVES..........................2'-3'+
WATER..........................NICE!
AIR.....................LIL' BREEZY
PADDLE TIME...........11:50am
CO-PILOT..........HANS SOLO

   MID DAY SESSION AT BEAC'S...NO CROWD, PLENTY OF WAVES, AND...WELL I GUESS IT WAS JUST A BORING SESSION. NOT THAT I DONT APPRECIATE RELAXING AND HAVING A MELLOW SESSION, I DIDNT HAVE ANYTHING EVENTFUL HAPPEN...I DONT KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS, BUT MAYBE IT WAS TOO MELLOW...? IF THATS POSSIBLE...


SESSION: #88 OF 500




LOCATION.............BEACONS
WAVES..........REALLY FUN!!!
WATER...............WHO CARES!
AIR................................WARM
PADDLE TIME...............2:40pm
CO-PILOT.......ME, MYSELF & I

     I REALLY LOVE BEACONS SOME TIMES! IT CAN REALLY BE SO MUCH FUN! LONG RIDES, REFORMS, DOUBLE UPS! INSIDE, OUTSIDE, SOUTH PEAK, NORTH PEAK, BAMBOOS, SECRETS SOUTHIES...TODAY WAS ONE OF THOSE DAYS. JUST RIGHT. GOOD TIDE, SMALL BUT GOOD DIRECTION SWELL, SUNNY!...NO COMPLAINTS! JUST STOKED!!


SESSION: #87 OF 500


WHAT'S YOUR LUCKY NUMBER?...


LOCATION.................G. VIEW 
WAVES..............................1'-3'+
WATER.............................55-58?
AIR..............NICE AND SUNNY
PADDLE TIME..............10:50am
CO-PILOT..........................SOLO

    ANOTHER DAY AT THE OFFICE...SOME SMALL WAVES, NOTHIN' SPECIAL. I JUST WORKED ON MY FIN SET UP AND WAS TRYING NEW SHTUFF...ALL IN ALL, IT WAS GOOD! THE SUN WAS OUT AND I WAS BASKING! I CANT WAIT TILL' SUMMER!!!!!!!


SESSION: #86 OF 500

#86...ORDER UP READY TO GO...


LOCATION.....................GRANDVEIW
WAVES............................................-1'-2'
WATER.......COLD AND CROWDED!!!
AIR..........................................COLDER!
PADDLE TIME.........................6:49am
CO-PILOT..........................................ED

  NOT MUCH TO SAY ABOUT THIS COLD, CROWDED, RUSHED AND FICLE SESSION. JUST CRAMMING ONE IN BEFORE I GO UP TO L.A. FOR FAMILY BUS. ALL I GOTTA SAY IS, NEXT TIME I'M BRINGIN' MY LOG!!!!!!!!!

Saturday, February 21, 2009

SESSION: #85 OF 500...20 MIN. QUICKIE!

   
    RIGHT AFTER MY L.B. SESSION WITH LUCAS, I DECIDE TO GO HOME, KEEP MY WETSUIT ON, AND GRAB MY SHORTY FOR A G-VEIW SESSION WITH ED...IT WAS SHORT ,  SWEET, AND TO THE POINT. I SCORED A COUPLE OF LINED UP LEFTS,  A ROUGE RIGHT OR TWO, AND  DECIDED TO CALL IT...AS IT WAS STILL PLUMING WITH WEEKEND WARRIORS AND OTHER DEAD SAILOR FIBERGLASS JOCKEY'S...

     SUNDAY SUNDAY...? WHAT WILL YOU HAVE FOR US?!

SESSION: #84 OF 500...LONGBOARDING 101



LOCATION.............THE BEAC'S
WAVE ....................2-5+
TEMP...........COLD BUT SUNNY!
PADDLE TIME...................9:30am
CO-PILOT..........LUCAS FOSTER
    
    ALL IN  ALL ANOTHER CROWDED BUT "STILL STOKED TO BE A SURFER" SATURDAYDAY... MY SPECIAL GEUST CO-PILOT WAS NON OTHER THAN THE FAMOUS LUCAS FOSTER (13) OF LA COSTA CA.  HE HAS DECIDED TO TAKE HIS SURFING TO THE NEXT STEP...
  
  I  TEACH ELITE SURF COACH LESSONS ON THE SIDE, AND LUCAS HAS JOINED UP WITH ME FOR THE NEXT TWO MONTHS TO PROGRESS HIS LONGBOARDING SKILLS,  AND HOPEFULLY START WINNING SOME COMPETITIONS!



 UNFORTUNATLY...THIS WAS WHAT THE CROWD SCENE LOOKED LIKE...    =(    ...OH WELL... STILL STOKED!!!!

...E...

Friday, February 20, 2009

SESSION: #83 OF 500







LOCATION.......................................ROUNDHOUSE
WAVES........................................................2'-4'
WATER TEMP...................................NOT TOO BAD
AIR......................WARMER THAN THE WATER!!! 
PADDLE TIME....................................3:10pm
CO-PILOT.....................................E.L.


    
      WHAT A NICE WAY TO END THE WEEK! FRIDAY AFTERNOON DELIGHT SESSION...STILL RECOVERING FROM THE EGG TO SHORTBOARD TRANSITION, I MANAGED TO PICK OFF A COUPLE OF FUN WAVES. 

  I REALLY LOVE THE EVENINGS WE HAVE HAD IN THE LAST FEW MONTHS AND IT REALLY MAKES ME LOOK FORWARD EVEN MORE TO SUMMER! LONG DAYS FILLED WITH THE SMELL OF BBQ'S AND COCONUT OIL. PEELING SOUTHIES, TRUNKS @ 6am!...WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED!?  

    HOW MANY SESSIONS CAN WE SQEEZE IN ONE DAY...2...3...4!?...QUICK!   GET THE ALOE, IM FRIED!...NO MORE FROZEN APPENDAGES,  NO MORE BOOTIES....NO MORE WETSUITS!         !!!!!WOOO HOOO!!!


OH WAIT...ITS STILL FEBUARY.
 
T-MINUS  ~100 DAYS TILL SUMMER!!!! 

SESSION: #82 OF 500...got egg?

      
      #82, OUT OF THE GATES AND RUNNING...TODAY WAS ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE!
LOCATION...............................BAMBOO'S
WAVES....................................................2-4
WATER..............COLD BUT ENJOYABLE
AIR...............................CLEAR AND BLUE
PADDLE TIME................................8:56am
CO-PILOT..........................MY GIRL LOLA


          TODAYS INTEREST: THE WONDERFUL AND MARVELOUS EGG....
LATELY I HAVE BEEN SEEING A LOT OF EGGY STYLE BOARDS IN THE LEUCADIA ROTATION, EVERYTHING FROM BONZERS TO 5'0" FLAT DISKS TO 7'10" QUAD SPEED FREAK EGGS...THIS HAS PEEKED MY INTEREST.

   
      SO I DECIDED TO BORROW A FRIENDS 6'8" PURE FUN AND THREW A 9'0" TURBO FIN (THE ONE WITH THE TUNNEL RAM SYSTEM) IN IT. IT WAS INTERESTING TO SAY THE LEAST, BUT A BLAST AT THE SAME TIME! IT FELT LIKE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. I COULD SCREAM DOWN THE LINE HANGIN SPEED 5, OR I COULD PUMP LONG DRAWN OUT TURNS OR EVEN WITH THE RIGHT LINED UP SECTIONS, I WAS ABLE TO PUNT A COUPLE NICE FRONT-SIDE  GRAB AIRS...IT WASNT MY SHORT BOARD, BUT I STILL LOVED IT!

     IM NOT PARTICULAR TO ANY BRAND OR SHAPER, I LIKE TO RIDE WHAT APEALS TO MY EYES AND USUALLY I CAN IDENTIFY ITS CHARACTERISTICS BEFORE SURFING IT. 
 WITH THAT BEING SAID, I REALLY AM BECOMING FOND OF THE OUT OF THE BOX STYLE SHAPES. 

 
    SHAPES LIKE THE HYDRODYNAMICA, WHICH IS SIMILAR TO A SHAPE THAT I SAW ABOUT 13-14 YEARS AGO SHAPED BY CHRIS NOONAN. ALSO THE COMPACT DISK SHORTIES...NOT SO MUCH THE WALDONS BUT JUST THAT STYLE.  ALL OF THE RETRO QUADS ARE GREAT TOO! I TEND TO GRAVITATE TOWARDS THE FLAT WIDE DOUBLE ENDER STYLE , REAL SHORT AND FAT! THRUSTER, QUAD, TWINY OR SINGLE, IM STOKED TO TRY AS MANY AS I CAN! 

   
     GETTING BACK TO THE EGGS...WITH SO MANY  STYLES AND FIN SET UPS AND OUTLINES AND THE HUGE RANGE OF VERSATILITY, YOU REALLY CANT GO WRONG! IT CAN GET BORING BUT IF REALLY GET LUCKY AND CONNECT WITH RIGHT BOARD ON THE RIGHT DAY,  IT COULD PROVE TO BE A TRULY MAGICAL SESSION...

         
      BUT ON THE OTHER HAND...I ALWAYS KEEP MY SHORTBOARD CLOSE BY!






Thursday, February 19, 2009

SESSION: #81 OF 500

ZEN-DIAGRAM...?


        WELL...NOT TOO MUCH TO SAY ABOUT THIS SESSION.  IT WAS SMALLER, INCONSISTENT AND BACKING OFF. MOST OF THEM AT LEAST...I DID HOWEVER MANAGE TO SWOOP IN ON A COUPLE OF SICK SOLO LEFTS THAT REELED ALL THE WAY, BUT THEN IT WAS 20-25MIN. BEFORE I SAW ANOTHER ONE...ALL IN ALL NO COMPLAINTS! AWSOME WEATHER, NO CROWDS, JUST A GOOD OL' FASHION DUNK IN THE POND!

A LITTLE TOO DEEP!...