HOLY MOLY...
ONCE AGAIN, TIME HAS SLIPPED BY SO QUICKLY. IVE BEEN LOGGING MY SESSIONS VIA MOLE SKIN JOURNAL AND IVE SEEM TO HAVE HAD NO TIME TO POST ONLINE. IM NOT SLIPPIN' OR TRIPPIN' AS FAR AS LEGITIMATE TIME IN THE WATER SO KEEP IN MIND , THIS IS DEFINATLY REAL AND ACCURATE.
IVE MISSED A COUPLE DAYS BUT MADE UP FOR IT WITH MANY OTHER DOUBLE SESSION DAYS. IN THE LAST MONTH THERE HAS BEEN SOME FUN WAVES AND SOME VERY POOPY DAYS, BUT AT THE END OF EACH OF THOSE DAYS I STILL FIND SUCH APRECIATION AND LOVE FOR THE OCEAN AND JUST LIFE IN GENERAL.
THIS JOURNEY HAS BEEN AWSOME! THE LAST 4 MONTHS OF DOCUMENTING THIS HAS BEEN VERY EYE OPENING FOR ME. NOT LIFE CHANGING, BUT IT HELPED ME TO SLOW THINGS DOWN IN THE RIGHT PLACES AND MOVE FORWARD IN OTHER DIRECTIONS THAT I WOULDN'T OF IF I DIDNT HAVE SUCH A BIG PASSION FOR THE OCEAN AND HOW MANY WONDERFUL THINGS YOU GAIN FROM IT. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT HELPS YOU TAKE A DIFFERENT APPROACH AND VIEW TO LIFE ON LAND! THE DAILY GRIND GETS US DOWN AND HAS US FIGHTING FOR SURVIVAL, THUS SACRIFICING OUR FREE TIME AND ULTIMATELY DAMPENING OUR SPIRITS. AT LEAST UNTILL THE NEXT PASAGE OF FREEDOM TO THE OCEAN, OR WHATEVER YOUR OUTLET IS....MINE IS THE OCEAN, AND EVEN IF I DONT HAVE A BOARD, IT STILL SOOTHES ME AND CREATES AN AVENUE FOR MY PERSONAL SERENITY. I HOPE EVERYONE HAS A PLACE THAT THEY CAN ESCAPE FROM THE STRESS OF DAILY LIFE IN THIS BIG WORLD WE LIVE IN...
ANYWAY, TO THE SESSION POST'S:
IT'S NOW SESSION #157 NOT TOO MUCH TO SAY ABOUT THE PAST 56 SESSIONS. NO BIG SWELLS BUT NOT TOO MANY TOTALY FLAT DAYS EITHER, SO I GUESS YOU COULD SAY THAT ITS BEEN AVERAGE.
THE WATER GOT WARM FOR A COUPLE DAYS AND THEN IT GOT COLD AGAIN. WE HAD ONE OR TWO DAYS OF SUPER FUN SOUTHIES, BUT ALL IN ALL, I WOULDNT TRADE IT FOR ANYTHING!...EXCEPT MAYBE A ONE WAY TICKET TO AN ISLAND THE SOUTH PACIFIC, WITH PLENTY OF WAVES AND PLENTY OF FISH!... AND BEER!... AND FREINDS! AND...WELL, MAYBE I ALREADY LIVE IN PARADISE. YEP I DO!...LIVING, LOVING, LAUGHING AND SHARING IS WHAT MAKES MY PARADISE! ALL THE REST CAN BE ACCOMMODATED AT THE APPROPRIATE TIMES. FOR NOW, JUST SURFING EVERYDAY AND BEING HAPPY IS WHAT I AM THANKFUL FOR. MEETING NEW PEOPLE AND NETWORKING WITH PEOPLE THAT LIVE THE SAME WAY HELPS ME MOVE FORWARD IN MY AMBITION TO STAY FOCUSED ON THIS WAY OF LIFE...
