SESSION: #77 OF 500
AWSOME!...ANOTHER RAINY DAY. WELL AT LEAST WE CAN USE IT RATHER THAN IT BEING AN ABUNDANCE, JUST HOPE IT DOESNT TOTALLY POOR DOWN.
THIS WONT STOP ME FROM SURFING! IM ON A MISSION! THAT MISSION IS TO SURF AT LEAST 500 SESSIONS THIS YEAR! YES, I SAID 500 TIMES! IT HAS BEEN AN INTERESTING START ALREADY. A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO WHEN WE HAD SOME SERIOUS RAIN, I WAS OUT THERE. TORRENTIAL DOWN POORING, AND GUSTY WINDS HAD MY GOOD FRIEND ED AND I TRIPPING OUT! IT WAS SUCH AN INTERESTING FEELING, SURFING IN SUCH HEAVY RAIN. IT DID HOWEVER MAKE FOR SOME GOOD SURFING, BELIEVE IT OR NOT! THE RAIN SETTLED EVERYTHING DOWN, NO BIG CHOPS AND FOR A FEW MOMENTS AT A TIME, THERE WERE SOME BIG DECENT FACED WAVES. BUT AS SOON AS THE RAIN LET UP THE WINDS TOOK OVER AND MIXED IT ALL UP AGAIN. IN THE END IT WAS ALL WORTH IT! AT LEAST FOR ME...KUDOES TO ED FOR LETTING ME DRAG HIM OUT THERE.
IM NOT A BIG FAN OF THE 150MPH WINDS EITHER...THOSE DAYS WHEN YOU CANT EVEN WALK IN A STRAIGHT LINE. BUT, YET AGAIN I PUT MYSELF IN THIS SITUATION. AS I WALK DOWN THE STAIRS HOLDING ON TO MY FEATHERY 2 POUND BOARD FOR DEAR LIFE, I FIND A SECOND WIND OF MOTIVATION. JUST THE SHEER THRILL OF BEING SUCH A SMALL INANIMATE OBJECT IN THE PACIFIC. NO ONE IN SITE FOR MILES, EVEN ON THE BEACH. BUT IM DEFINATLY NOT ALONE!...IM JUST UNAWARE OF WHAT IS UNDERNEATH...BUT STILL, NO REGRETS!
IVE NOW COME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT THERE IS AN INNER FIRE THAT IS PUSHING ME TO OVERCOME MY FEARS...LIFE IS WAY TOO SHORT AND IF WE DONT FOLLOW OUR HEARTS, THAN OUR DREAMS JUST REMAIN DREAMS AND EVERYTHING ELSE SEEMS BLAND. ON THE OTHER HAND IF WE DO TEST OUR LIMITS AND STEP UP TO THE PLATE, IT BRINGS THE FEELING OF BEING ALIVE!!! IVE HEARD PEOPLE SAY THIS BEFORE BUT ONLY RECENTLY DOES IT RING TRUE. WOW! WHAT A FEELING!
FOR ME, THE EXPERIENCE OF FEAR IS WHAT KEEPS ME YOUNG AND ON MY TOES! IT MAY SOUND WEIRD, BUT I DONT KNOW HOW TO EXPLAIN IT ANY OTHER WAY...DOING THINGS THAT MOST PEOPLE LABEL AS A WASTE OF TIME OR TOO DANGEROUS IS WHAT MAKES ME TICK! IM NOT STUPID, I JUST LIKE TO TAKE CALCULATED RISKS ALONG WITH MY DOSE OF DAILY LIFE!
JUST REMEMBER, IF LIFE HAS NO CONTRAST, PAIN OR PLEASURE, GOOD OR BAD, FEAR OR COMFORT...THAN HOW DO WE GROW AS INDIVIDUALS AND EXPERIENCE LIFE?...
ALL COMMENTS WELCOME ON THIS ONE! =)
calculated risks huh? sounds like a good time to me.
ReplyDelete