THIS GUY IS AMAZING! I MET HIM AT A CONTEST IN O-SIDE, HE WAS KILLING IT ON HIS KNEE BOARD. ONE FOOTED AND PUTTING ON HIS WETSUIT AT 5:45am, HE WAS JAMMIN' OUT TO ZEPLIN ON HIS CAR RADIO, WITH MORE STOKE AND INSPIRATION THAN MOST FROTHING GROMMIE'S, HE PROCEEDED TO PADDLE OUT...54 DEGREES, HOWLING OFFSHORE, DAWN IS RISING AND HE IS THE FIRST ONE OUT! THE FIRST SHOT IS AFTER HIS SESSION...THE OTHERS WERE WHEN IT WAS LIGHT ENOUGH TO SHOOT...
Sunday, January 11, 2009
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