SURF DU' JOUR

day of the surf dead handplane...

2011-10-27T10:18:00.000-07:00

Another fun creation sparked by the ingenious minds
of Ed and Kip from Enjoy Handplanes!

This was such a blast to do! The over all size
and texture of the sanded finish made it quite easy to
really get detailed and get in the zone...

This is my surf inspired rendition of
"Dia De Los Muertes"

Floating around somewhere
on display with many other awesome
creative explosions cast upon the canvas of an
"enjoy handplane"
:)
tHANKS eD AND kIP!

Icky sticky ooey groovey!

2011-10-25T10:07:00.000-07:00

Hot and flashy 6'3" x 21 3/8" x 2 7/8"

New "Lola" model surfboard
Shaped and glassed with 100% love for my dear and fondest...
almost finished...

buckets of love...

Squeegie love!...

Sanded and ready for some hotcoat love!...

Everyday...

2011-02-10T16:48:00.000-08:00

What Im sliding...

2011-01-15T11:12:00.000-08:00

New model: "Sabre" 5'6" x 19 5/8" x 2 7/16"
I basically took my Apex template and gave it a fat rounded pin tail...

Apex 2.0- 5'5 3/4" x 19 1/2" x 2 3/16"

I love these fins!

A well deserved WIN for Jeremy Flores!

2010-12-17T12:36:00.001-08:00

Nice work Jeremy!
France and all of Europe are so stoked to see him bring home the win for 2010!

♪ ♫ It's the most won-der-ful-time- of-the-year! ♪ ♫ GAME ON!

2010-12-08T10:30:00.000-08:00

Love my new WEST ECO suit!...

2010-11-12T10:56:00.000-08:00

Hats off to WEST Wetsuits for making a sustainable material suit!
...And one that actually kicks ASS! This suit is almost too warm! Not to mention the fuzzy inside made from bamboo and recycled plastic bottles.

The West Lotus ECO is an environmentally sustainable wetsuit. The Neoprene is limestone-based; the fabrics are knitted with yarns created from recycled plastic bottles and bamboo. The fabrics are laminated with non solvent based adhesives and printed with water based inks.

National Pitbull awareness day. October 23, 2010.

2010-10-23T11:23:00.000-07:00

This dog in the pic actually is the MOST decorated war dog in history! Even to this day!
But it's unfortunate that people dont know the real history of this dog and his breed...

These are my two gentle angels...

If you dont know the breed other than what the media likes to portray, Then you are truly missing the truth behind these amazing dogs, what their true history as an american hero is, and who is really to blame for the negative stereo type that is so very similar to what african americans went throught in the civil rights movement. So on this day we recognise, from coast to coast, north to south and everywhere in between, that this breed and others like it are only victoms of circumstanse: bad owners first of all! overbreeding, shock driven media and ignorance! The truth is that this dog is so willing to please, that they will do ANYTHING to please their owners, regardless of the task. And it is SO very unfortunate that the wrong people have taken clear advantage of this! Do some homework and you will find that there is a clear line in the sand between where the truth is and where the lies begin!

Smile More...

2010-10-06T11:22:00.000-07:00

This is a great artical I found this morning and I figured someone else might
enjoy it too.


Article:

The basis of science is trust in mathematics. If you do not trust
mathematics, science cannot move an inch. Similarly, business cannot
move if the industry has no trust in customers and customers in their
creditors. And human value is about trusting the good nature that we
all are endowed with, that we all are born with. I feel that success
is really measured by the smiles a person has on his face. I wont call
someone successful if one is so tense, worried, disappointed, dejected
and miserable. Who would want such a success?

There is a latest scientific discovery that a baby smiles 400 times a
day and adolescent smiles only 17 times a day. But an adult does not smile
at all. What is it that takes away this natural gift of humanity  smile,
friendliness, compassion, broad-mindedness, scientific temper  we need to
ponder on that. If you ask a kid how many friends he has in the class,
he will count on the fingers  3, 4 or 5 in a classroom of 40-50 kids.
The kids are unable to be friendly with all the 40-50 of their class
when they come out of the school how do you expect them to be friendly
with the world. We have somehow failed to nurture the basic human
values.

Half the health is spent in gaining wealth and half of this  
wealth we spend to gain back the health. I do not think that is a good
economics. We do not need to cultivate human values. What really
obstructs human values is stress and tension. If a person is tense,
then his perception, observation and expression suffer. And you have
only two ways to get rid of tension either lessen your workload or
increase the energy level. In todays world, it is not possible to
lessen the workload it will keep on growing day by day. The
alternative is to increase our energy. Here I usually suggest that we
can take a look at different sources of energy. The food is our first
source of energy  proper food and right amount of food, neither too
much, nor too little. Second is proper sleep. Third, that is the most
important source of energy, is breath, which we have ignored or
forgotten about. You know 90 percent of impurities in the system go
out through the breath. With every breath we exhale, we are throwing
out carbon dioxide, toxins are going out of the system and blood is
getting purified. Breath is such an important source of energy but we
have not done much to learn and study about our breath. The breath is
the link between body and mind. For every emotion there is a
corresponding rhythm in the breath. You would have noticed that when
one is depressed, unhappy, anxious or tense, the breath moves and
flows differently. Notice how we breathe when we are tense when we are
angry we breathe differently.

I took up this aspect and we went to different areas around the world,
including prisons. About 100,000  prisoners did this breathing exercise,
for five days, a couple of hours each day. They had tremendous experiences.
Afterwards they said that if they had taken this before, their lives would
have been different perhaps they would not have been there. You know,
in the spur of the moment when the emotions arise, the person acts and
commits a crime and he does not know why he did it. By the time he
comes to his senses he has already committed the crime. This mind,
which oscillates between the past and the future anger about the past
and anxiety about the future continuously, creates so many toxins in
the body. Breath is the key to eliminate these toxins, these
impressions, and harmonise the emotions.

Neither in school nor at
home, have we ever heard or learned any thing about how to manage our
emotions. The ancient Vedas, yogic system, yoga and also, Koreans with
tai chi, have used these techniques. They have formulated breathing
exercises that release your tension and improve your alertness and
awareness. So I feel it is very important that we teach our children
and our people as to how they should handle their negative feelings
and their emotions. If a child is educated a little bit about
Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Sikhism, Taoism  all different spiritual
and religious traditions  he will grow up thinking very favourably,
with a broad mind and a sense of belongingness for everybody. We can
be creative and productive, and at the same time not lose the human,
the humanness that we are all born with. Just material things or
comfort alone do not really make a person comfortable. He may have a
good bed to sleep on, but is unable to sleep due to insomnia or worry.
He needs to get a broad understanding about himself and his
priorities. A clarity in the mind makes things much easier -
understanding his basic emotions like love, his interaction with
people around him, knowing about his own ego or what his own intellect
or mind is saying to him and introspection, will give him a few
minutes of relaxation which is very vital.

So, what is most important is introspection about ones own life and how to
improve the quality of life  this intention itself will open many doors
for a person, to feel better about himself. Develop a sense of caring
for each other and smile more.

~Sri Sri

Ole' boneyards come's through once again...

2010-10-01T10:11:00.000-07:00

Surfed Boney's yesterday... Damn, I forgot how fun that wave is! Once my childhood stomping grounds, It used to be my home break as well as swamis and D-st. Still great waves in Leucadia, but its so nice to get a few good ones out here! Its like reconnecting with a great friend.

Sold out, over rated and way too cool for me....

2010-09-30T16:01:00.000-07:00

Sometimes it gets a little too thick for me.
It seems as if no one seems to have a grasp on loyalty, reality and how NOT
to sell out for popularity. People seem to be able to buy their talent these days and its all about who you know or how much $$$ you have. Rather than how hard you have worked for it.
To me, there is nothing more stoke crushing than working hard at what you do, trying to push forward, only to look up and see that you've lost the popularity contest that you didn't even enter...

...the bottom.

2010-09-07T11:47:00.000-07:00

fuzzy pic. sorry.

i LOVE CoLOuR !

2010-09-04T15:31:00.000-07:00

I was recently allowed the privilege of glassing Lauren's new CASTER! As you can tell, she opted for a tri-color scheme of 2/3 honey mustard, an olive band and a lovely teal nose! It was a great experience and most of all It was special to me because i know how much this board means to her, as it was a replica of her all time favorite shred sled!

It was tedious an and extremly fun at the same time! this was only my third time glassing full color opaque with multiple colors! It turned out better than we expected! stay tuned for more pics!

Quite the labor of love!...

I know this girl, and she likes to paint...

2010-08-17T14:56:00.000-07:00

Ms. Lauren Tolford.

quite the expressive one,
if you know her.

On a daily basis,
she blesses the universe with her presence,
her art and her compassion for all.
Talented in many mediums,
she is a swimsuit designer,
a painter,
a jewelry maker and
a great surfer!

If you would like to see more Art or inquire about any other of the facets of this young ladies life, please CLICK HERE or HERE
or...feel free to contact her direct:
Laurentolford@yahoo.com

In a pinch...

2010-08-08T14:41:00.001-07:00

I forgot to bring my fork.
Its hard to eat lasagna without one.
There are plenty of fins in a surf shop.
Any questions?...

Nice.

2010-07-24T15:10:00.001-07:00

pinniped canine or canine pinniped?

2010-06-15T16:07:00.000-07:00

WoW! I spend alot of time in the ocean and sometimes i miss my dogs. I often wonder how i can share this experience with my four legged freinds...

Here's the solution! Can you imagine! Playing fetch between sets, never having to worry about your board washing all the way in. Hook a rope to him and you have a sweet tow vessel! He even wards off grumpy locals and small sharks!

Whatever it is, I want one!

Ill call him Poseidon or maybe Neptune...

RAD!...

2010-06-09T12:37:00.001-07:00

5'1" "Shoe horn" is finished...

2010-05-29T17:02:00.001-07:00

This was by far one of the coolest experiences Ive had! My first complete build! Not only did i shape it, but i laminated, hot coated, installed the fin system and sanded it! No one else touched this board in the building process! Ive shaped other boards and sent them off to glass, but i really wanted the whole enchilada with this one...

Im stoked! it actually was easier than i thought in some aspects, and way more time consuming in other areas. Im very happy with the results! My hat goes off to all those who do this on a daily basis! Especially the laminators! i think thats the most crucial part of the whole build! No margin for error!...

Ive ridden it about 5 times already, and with the propper fin setup, it really screams! But its very picky with what fins it likes...
YEW!
:)

5'4" - "Moon plug" Quadromatic...

2010-05-21T12:53:00.001-07:00

5'4" x 19 3/4" x 2 3/16"
Quadromatic...

One night whilst laying in bed, i had a vision. sorta like feild of dreams. anyway it was the channeling of an old spirit wanting me to utilise the soul of a broken longboard. or at least the idea of taking the front half of a tanker, and creating a tiny little vessel that screams!

I immediatly i thought of Dennis Murphy, and his lineage of longboard expertice. So i called him and told him about my crazy thoughts. He was totally down! infact i think he was stoked to open a new realm of what i like to call "plug style" boards and designs. I felt that his interpritation would be along the same line as what i had invisioned, and he was the man to embrace the idea! I would be stoked to see this take off and open a new demographic of customers to MURPHEY Surfboards. To me its a style that Dennis would have a natural instinct for. So keep your eyes peeled in the near future for More distinctive Murphy Shred sleds!

The whole proccess was alot of fun! I gathered together all the ideas and refined my choice to this outline. Dennis then went to work planing the rough cut and fundamentals of the board. Then the finishing details were in my hands! The concept was really something that i had never Shaped before, but it came together better than i could have imagined! Single concave to vee out the tail! WOW! I cant wait to get it in the water!

Chunky, yet refined.

40 grit!
Yew!

2010-05-21T12:53:00.000-07:00

true meaning of loyalty and love...

2010-05-20T13:06:00.000-07:00

Alternative perspective...

2010-05-13T11:51:00.000-07:00

"Weird flip"...old pic, but worth dusting off. (D-st circa 2005)

5'1" x 19.5" x 2.3" tri-fin slug plug..."the shoe horn"

2010-05-04T13:24:00.000-07:00

This was the very first board that i have built 100% solo! Shaped, glassed, and soon to be installed fin boxes, hotcoat and sanded. the only hands that have touched, and will touch this board, are mine! Shaped out of the garage, then i went to GLOBAL Glassing, where was able to throw some resin on there with all the appropriate deck and fin patches. And from years of watching and partial collaboration of other boards, i successfully laminated this lil' slug plug! From there she went into the tanning booth for some uv treatment. Next post will be covering the fin boxes, hotcoat and sanding!

Chubby Rear end! just like i like em'

Im pretending to know what im doing here...

Bottom lamination, step one...

Tanning booth! for boards! what?!...
insta-cured! Some say it gives off a yellow tone but i dont care, this board is gonna get some aftermarket art treatment before its maiden voyage...

Boogie's of all types:

2010-05-01T15:57:00.000-07:00

Boogie fish...

Boogie Ganesh...

Boogie Monkey...

Boogie Nights...

Boogie man...

The Stealth Sea slug...

2010-04-29T09:58:00.000-07:00

HYDROFLEX 5'5" BOOGIE FISH - Another fine example of german engineering!
What can i say, dont be fooled by its appearence. this thing is a riot! Fast, nimble and sooo much fun. in 2ft or 10ft faces, this thing is insane! With Hydroflex construction and EPS foam, this board is a must have for anyone's quiver! Try it once and you will be hooked!

A hybrid high performance keel fin setup.
Its not a shortboard fin, but its not a quite a keel fin either...
I had these layin' around so i figure they would be great for this board.
...and they do!

The rebel yell of Bufo...
Stay tuned for photos of this board in action!

Feel free to point and laugh at me!...

2010-04-21T11:23:00.000-07:00

CLICK HERE: --->Transworld Surf Gear guide 2010/ STICKY BUMPS PROMO...

I ROVE THIS PICTURE!...

2010-04-17T13:02:00.000-07:00

I want your thoughts and opinions!...

2010-04-14T14:05:00.000-07:00

Here is the link to the full site: SITE #1

HERES THE LINK FOR #2

I recently built these sites to have a decent online bio/profile for my surfing. this WIX thing is a cake walk! they are both about 80% finished and im interested to know what my friends and acquaintances think. Good, bad and the ugly, i'd like to hear it all! thankyou! E-

just a teaser...

2010-04-07T13:53:00.000-07:00

Inspiration for my next creation...

Im thinking 5'1"...

Just for reference, the orange board is a 5'10" and the little plug next to it is the blank.

[:Slider]...

2010-03-28T10:19:00.000-07:00

i found this pic a few weeks ago on slider mag.
i liked it so much that i poached it and decided to re-post it...
this image says alot to me...
thanks for sharing it :slider.

SWAMI'S COMPRIMISE...

2010-03-26T13:34:00.000-07:00

I'm sure if we can all find some common ground and we all make some compromises, this contest should go smoothly and everyone will be happy!

I think if it were a "BRO DOWN" contest, nobody would care! but since its a WOMENS contest, there seems to be a lot of "quick to be an asshole" guys out there who think that they OWN swami's...c'mon pull your head out man!

So heres my solution...This'll stop their crying!

The I.W.N.L. (international womens nude longboarding)
CHAMPIONSHIPS

The "APEX" Goes HYDROFLEX!...

2010-03-14T11:25:00.000-07:00

I cant say how stoked i am to see my "APEX" signature model being produced in HYROFLEX technology composite! for those of you who know about this board, you know how sweet it is in P.U. construction, now its going to be off the charts as a HYDROFLEX!

Here it is being shaped out of a stringerless 1.5lb. eps foam blank. The line you see is just pencil...

Ahhh, she's purdy!

Single to Double in the tail...

Stay tuned for more updates when finished...

...LIFE IS NOT A RIGHT, ITS A GIFT. SOME PEOPLE DONT APPRECIATE THAT FACT.

2010-03-12T15:20:00.001-08:00

Pure inspiration. Humility at its finest. These guys are my heroes!

Watch this vid. and you will agree.
Real men dont sweat the small stuff.

BIRTHRIGHT from Sean Mullens on Vimeo.

A GOOD CASE OF THE "MONDAY'S"...

2010-03-03T14:04:00.000-08:00

Here are some shots from monday morning. superfun, playful high tide at grandview

billboard air...

The ninja says: kee-ya!

Flat faced cutty...

Room with a view...

FINtastic creation!...

2010-02-25T13:30:00.000-08:00

We'll see about this one. its got good theory, but there's probably a reason
why mother nature never had holes in her tail fins...

I'll post more upon trials and testing...

Mans best friend...

2010-02-19T10:16:00.000-08:00

What an amazing gift i received the other day! actually it was valentines day, and my sweet lovely Lauren decided she wanted to paint a portrait of my Dog. And if any of you know me or my dog, you know that he is an amazing dog and he means the world to me. The portrait is spot on too! It looks just like him! She is a very talented artist as you may have seen on other posts, or on "The Leucadia Project" many a time!

I thought this was well worth posting and sharing for all those
who apprecaite her art as well as "Petey".

Sir Peter Bear:
Royal Knight of the Pacific cub colony

i like a good high tide, but this is crazy!!!

2010-01-31T16:36:00.000-08:00

...the backwash at grandview has been a little tough lately.
this is 1-2' with an occasional 12' backwash!
i think its safe to say he didnt make the drop...

Stormy daze...glad its over.

2010-01-24T13:53:00.000-08:00

5ft board on a 10ft face...with a nasty side wind. not as fun as it shoulda' been...

Todos Santos - Road trip - 1.11.10...

2010-01-14T13:01:00.000-08:00

green perfection!

So Tuesday afternoon, as im walking through home depot picking out some materials for the shop, i get a call from Larry. he says its firing down south and that he had reserved a boat for us for tomorrow!... "what?...yer' kidding right? where?" he then proceeds to tell me that its gonna hit Todos Santos on weds, and its gonna be HUGE!!!..."Holy S%#T!!! its on!!!!"

So this is the documentation of our trip. we brought along our videographer Justin , so we could get some video footage for the next arena movie. I had my camera with me as well so i took these shots from the boat when i was done surfing. there were a lot of big names out there and some serious waves. Greg long, mike parsons, alex gray and a couple other big wave heroes. i was so amped to be out there shoulder to shoulder with these guys and the shear energy in the water was unfathomable! I was on an insane 6'9" NIRVANA gun which was too small to paddle into the bigger sets, but it was awsome once I got down the face. most of the guys were on 9'6" to 11'0" ft. boards. I got my fair share of waves, but it was a little more challenging being on a shorter stick. but once I got the hang of where to sit, and where to position my feet, it was insane! I was in heaven! BY FAR THE BIGGEST WAVES OF MY LIFE! I will post more as it arrives! so sit back and enjoy the ride!

Mexican border at 7am

amazing sunrise!

ensenada bay...

sketchy boat rentals.

yeah...it was big.

sheet glass conditions!

aquatic paparazzi!!

the swell just got bigger and bigger!!!

surfed out, sunburnt, hungry and grinning from ear to ear!!!

before: fresh 6'9"...this should work. right?

after: OH MY GOD! sweet board....wrong size! wheres my 9'6"at!? ! but once i got into the
waves, they were manageable...barely. it was like being chased by a bull while pedaling a tricycle!

THANK YOU MEXICO!

5'7" twin stringer- tri/quad-kelly inspired...

2010-01-10T09:50:00.000-08:00

thanks roy!

many options.

journey to 500!...its finally complete!

2010-01-07T15:56:00.000-08:00

those of you who are loyal enough and patient enough to follow
my patchy and inconsistent blog, know that i was on a mission to surf 500 sessions
within one calender year. from jan 1st 2009 to dec 31st 2010. it was more than a mission! it was almost torture at certain points. but it was worth every paddle , every stormy,
rainy day when my body said HELL NO! and my heart said C'MON, ITS ONLY PAIN, WHATS THE BIG DEAL! through fevers, dirty waters, and beyond howling winds, i conquered
my goal! as a matter of fact i did better than that, i hit 501!
but i must say, out of 365 days i did miss about 7 days in total due to
random reasons out of my control. this however made me realise that it would of actually been harder to surf once EVERY single day and not miss one, than to surf 500 times...

2009-11-16T18:52:00.000-08:00

ANOTHER BIT OF INSPIRATION FROM KELLY...

IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN, THEN YOU WILL RECOGNIZE THE

BOARD, WITH SOME PERSONAL TWEAKS OF MY OWN.

5'7" TWIN STRINGER

ALL I CAN SAY IS THAT I AM SO AMPED TO SEE HOW THIS THING PERFORMS,

SINGLE CONCAVE WITH A TOUCH OF V- IN THE TAIL...

OH MY!

FOR THOSE STILL INTERESTED...

IM @ SESSION# 426

AS OF 11/16/09...

IM CUTTING IT CLOSE! I KNOW!

500 OR BUST!

WHAT I'M...I MEAN WE, ARE RIDING...

2009-09-20T14:13:00.000-07:00

FINALLY GOT OUR COLLABORATIVE BOARD GLASSED

WITH WOODEN FINS AND A BITCHIN' ART DECORE,

LAUREN AND I HAVE BEEN SO STOKED TO GET SOME

WAVE TIME ON THIS THING AND IT IS AWSOME!!!!

WE BOTH ARE AMAZED BY THIS BOARD...

PROBLY' CAUSE ITS GOT GOOD JUJU!

HAND SHAPED BY ROY SANCHEZ AND

PAINTED BY LAUREN AND I, IT HAS PROVEN TO BE

A WELL ROUNDED BOARD! IT ACTUALLY RIDES BETTER

THAN I WOULD OF GUESSED! IT SEEMES TO LIKE AIRIALS,

BELIEVE IT OR NOT!...

MORE PICS TO COME!!!

MAYBE EVEN SOME VIDEO...

...

FOR THOSE WHO ARE INTERESTED,

THE 500 SESSION COUNT IS AT #362...

KNOW WHEN TO SAY WHEN...

2009-08-28T15:48:00.000-07:00

AT WHAT POINT DO YOU SAY :ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!?

FOR ME, THREE IS FAMILIAR, FOUR IS FUN & FIVE IS FRISKY...

BUT THIS IS JUST INSANE!

I BET THE OCTA-MOM WOULD ENJOY THIS ONE!

SURFS UP!

.......SURFING THE POWER OF MENTAL STRENGTH THROUGH ENLIGHTENMENT AND SPIRITUAL ENERGY

2009-08-24T07:39:00.000-07:00

ITS PRETTY AMAZING SOMETIMES,

WHEN WE FIND OURSELVES QUESTIONING AND STRESSING

OVER THE PERILS OF LIFE,

HOW WE LET IT EFFECT US NEGATIVELY,

AND HOW WE TRY TO CONTROL TOO MUCH OF IT.

IVE RECENTLY RE-DISCOVERED THE POWER OF JUST

LETTING GO, AND HOW IT FREE'S YOUR MIND AND SPIRIT.

THROUGH FORMS OF PRAYER, MEDITATION, QI GONG,

FALUN DAFA, AND OF COURSE TAI CHI I HAVE OPENED UP NEW

AVENUES OF MY BEING, AND DISCOVERED WHAT THE MIND

IS ACTUALLY CAPABLE OF OVERCOMING.

SOMETIMES ITS EASY TO LET OUR EGO

GET IN THE WAY OF OUR LIVES AND OUR DREAMS

AND EVEN OUR DAILY FUNCTIONS...

FOR ME WHEN THIS HAPPENS, I FEEL AS IF

IM LOSING CONTROL, SO I TRY TO CONTROL IT MORE,

WHICH MAKES EVERYTHING WORSE.

(WITH EXCEPTION TO WHAT I AM INTENDED TO CONTROL)

TO ME, THAT IS WHAT CREATES INNER TENSION,

INSECURITIES, AND THE NEED TO NUMB OR PACIFY

WITH DEFENSIVE THOUGHTS AND ACTIONS OF

THE MIND THAT ARE CLEARLY NOT POSITIVE.

FREEDOM OF THE MIND, AND A CLEAR MENTAL STATE

IS MORE POWERFUL THAN ANY PHYSICAL ABILITY.

MORE EMPOWERING THAN ALL THE MONEY IN THE WORLD,

AND THE PUREST FORM OF HAPPINESS.

IT HAS CHANGED THE WAY I VIEW SURFING AND WHAT IT MEANS TO ME.

WHETHER IT HAS IMPROVED MY SURFING, I DONT KNOW.

BUT I DO KNOW THAT I ACTUALLY ENJOY IT ALOT MORE!

I BELIEVE EVERYONE DESERVES TO FIND THERE OWN FORM OF

FREEDOM FROM SOCIETY AND PRESSURES OF

OUR OWN INNER EGO.

SO TO THIS I GIVE THANKS TO ALL THE HIGHER FORMS OF BEING,

WHETHER IT BE SPIRITUAL, ALIGNMENT OF HUMAN ENERGIES,

THE POWER OF THE UNIVERSE, OR ALL OF THE ABOVE.

LAURENS NEXT VENTURE: "@SEA" FASHIONS! SO COOL! YOU HAVE TO SEE THEM IN PERSON!

2009-08-22T15:32:00.000-07:00

HOT OFF THE PRESS!

HANDMADE CUSTOM ONE OF A KIND SURF T'S!

GUYS, GIRLS, AND KIDS AS WELL!

LONG BOARD, SHORTBOARD, RETRO-FISH,

OLD SKOOL KEELS,

EVEN A MERMAID!

SESSION#309...NEW APEX BOARD IS AMAZING!

2009-08-18T21:32:00.000-07:00

...finally a new post! it's been a while.

and to the very few of you who are loyal enough

follow this blog, sorry...i've been distracted. thanks for

not kicking me off the list

session#309 of 500...

less than 140 days left.

This is the new sled...

I love it!...

My latest design,

Shaped by ROY SANCHEZ...

I call it the "APEX"...

hidden volume,

low rocker,

performance rails,

7.25" square tail...

just beautiful!

5'10" x 14.5" x 20" 16" x 2.5"...

in less than a week of testing,

ive come to the conclusion that

this is my favorite design so far!

stay tuned for a short vid of this board in action.

or you can go to:

loop'd.com/members/maverik51

let me know what you think!!!

-peace...-e...

SESSION: #246 - THE STREAK CONTINUES: STEADY AS SHE GOES... P.S.- WATCH OUT FOR LARGE FLYING STINGRAYS!

2009-07-10T21:43:00.000-07:00

WHILE SURFING AT AVO, I WAS GLANCED BY A LARGE ANGRY STING RAY WHO CAME TO THE SURFACE WHILE I WAS SITTING ON THE OUTSIDE. NOW, IVE BEEN HIT 3 TIMES BY SMALL RAYS (ONLY ON THE INSIDE) AND IT IS DEFINATLY ONE OF THE WORST PAINS I HAVE EVER FELT. SO YOU CAN IMAGINE MY GASP AS I SEE THIS THING CHARGE TOWARDS ME AT MACH 1. AS IT GOT CLOSER, MY "EL GATO"LIKE REFLEX TOLD ME TO PULL UP MY FEET, AND AS I DID, THE LITTLE BUGGER BROKE THE SURFACE AND PITCHED OFF TO THE LEFT OF MY LEG AND ARM. SCARY. I GOT A PRETTY GOOD LOOK AT IT. IT WAS THICK AND WIDE! APROX 2FT. WIDE AND THE THING MUST HAVE BEEN AT LEAST 4" THICK!

ALL IN ALL, NO HARM NO FOUL.

THE FUNNY THING WAS, ABOUT 10 MINUTES LATER, I HAPPEN TO SEE A BIG SPOTTED SEAL WITH A RAY IN ITS MOUTH, MOTORING BACK OUT WITH ITS HEAD ABOVE WATER. SOMETHING I HAD NEVER SEEN BEFORE! NOW I DONT HOLD A GRUDGE AGAINST THE RAY FOR THE HASTY FLY BY THREAT, AFTER ALL IM IN HIS HOUSE. BUT IT DOES SEEM LIKE A LITTLE POETIC JUSTICE THAT THE SEAL WAS HUNTING THE RAY'S... THANKS MR. SEAL.

...thankyou doctor evil.

5'6"x20"x2.5"...due next week. ...E - TYPE...

2009-06-04T19:14:00.000-07:00

This, my friends, is a rendering of my new shape by roy sanchez. i call it the "e-type". Ive been riding a 5'9" "roi fish" lately, and roy and i decided to work on a quarky design i had in my head. It turned out awsome. a little influence from the k. slates, with crafting in the hands of roy, and a little hydrophysic's formulative theory on my part...it became a reality...enjoy!

SESSION #194...PUNCTURED CALF MUSCLE, BUT IM STILL IN THE GAME!... THANKYOU DUCT TAPE!

"ROI FISH" new board review..+session: #185...

2009-05-22T15:29:00.000-07:00

I CANT BELIEVE HOW THINGS FALL INTO PLACE SOMETIMES... THIS WAS ACTUALLY SHAPED FOR A FREIND, AND IT HAD MISSING GRAPHICS SO ROY MADE ANOTHER ONE AND GAVE THIS ONE TO ME. I THOUGHT IT WAS GOING TO BE ANOTHER FISH, DRAWN OUT LINES, 4" ABOVE THE WATER WITH MORE FOAM THAN I COULD EVER NEED. YOU KNOW, A TYPICAL RETRO TWIN OUTLINE RIGHT!?

I WAS VERY WRONG! THIS THING IS SICK!!!!!!!!! IT TOTALY EFFIN' SHREDS! LOOK HOW THIN IT IS. I RODE IT LIKE A SHORTY WHIP CRACKER AND IT RESPONDED WITH SUCH GREAT FEED BACK AND SPEED! CLEARING THE LONGEST SECTIONS AND STILL TOTALLY CAPABLE OF BIG AIRS AND BLOWOUT TAILSLIDES...NOT ONLY THAT, BUT IT HANDLES POWER AND SIZE REALLY WELL! A TUBE SLIDER FOR SURE!! GOOD JOB ROY!

I AM BLOWN AWAY BY THE CAPABILITIES OF THIS BOARD AND THE FUTURE POTENTIAL OF THIS BOARD. WITH SUBLTE CHANGES, IT COULD BE A NEAR PERFECTLY BALANCED AND UNIVERSAL BOARDS. THE ZEN BOARD, A HIGH PERFORMANCE CRAFT THAT MAKES YOU LOOK AT WAVES OF ALL SIZES DIFFERENTLY. IT MAY LOOK LIKE ANOTHER "POD" OR "BISCUIT" STYLE, BUT THERE IS SOMETHING VERY DIFFERENT ABOUT THIS STICK...

TWO CRAZY DOGS AND A BLONDE...

2009-05-12T19:13:00.000-07:00

THIS SHOT TO ME SAYS ALOT! THESE GUYS ARE MY LIFE AND ALMOST EVERY THING I LIVE FOR (EXCEPT THE SPIRIT OF SURFING), AND YET THEY ARE SOOOOO CRAZY! AND I MEAN ALL THREE OF THEM!...NOT JUST THE DOGS. THESE ARE TWO OF THE BEST DOGS IVE EVER OWNED! BY FAR! POUND-RESCUE PUPPIES. PETEY IS THE BLUE NOSE STAFFIE AND GIDGET IS THE RED NOSE PIT/LAB/RODESION MIX (and the craziest one), BUT THEY KEEP ME SANE AND GROUNDED. ITS AMAZING SOMETIMES HOW THE LITTLE THINGS IN LIFE REALLY OUTWEIGH EVERYTHING THAT SOCIETY HAS PUT A PRESSURED INFLUENCE ON...

SESSION POST# 176 - Beacons...again...eh. surfed with logan. he rips. makes me wish i was 11 again...

SUMMERTIME...BRING ON THE ZOO!

2009-05-12T13:16:00.000-07:00

I CAME ACROSS THIS PICTURE FROM LAST SUMMER, AND IT MADE REMEMBER WHAT COMPLETE KAOS IT CAN BE AND HOW CATCHING ONE WAVE CAN REALLY BE A CHALLENGE AT CERTAIN TIMES...LIKE THIS.

I GUESS ITS A FORM OF SURF SLALOM RIGHT?...BOB AND WEEVE. BOB AND WEEVE. NOW QUICK, GO UP FOR A FLOATER!

SESSION POST# 175...I know that i dont post every one, but they are accounted for.

Beacons, beacons, beacons. I cant seem to get away from it. hasnt been that good, i just dont feel like going anywhere else...i think im just lazy. no waves anyway.

ERGONOMIC DESIGN...NO NEED FOR SILLY POCKETS!

2009-05-11T09:01:00.000-07:00

IM GONNA GO OUT ON A LIMB HERE, AND SAY THAT I THINK THIS COULD REVOLUTIONIZE HANDS FREE TALKING WHILE DRIVING! THINK OF ALL THE OTHER THE POSSIBILITIES AS WELL. THESE HOOPS CAN HOLD ANYTHING! I-PODS, GROCERY LIST, WALLET, SMALL CAT OR KITTEN, EVEN A SPARE BAR OF WAX WHILE YOU SURF! THEY SHRINK AND STRETCH AS NEEDED TO FIT ANY CARRY ON ITEM!

WAY TO THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX! ALTERNATIVE RESOURCES ROCK! I CANT WAIT TO SEE THE NEW BUILT-IN MARSUPIAL LAP TOP- POUCH!

IN OTHER NEWS:

SESSION: #174...IN THE BOOKS.- I CAN TASTE SUMMER IN THE WATER! -STILL LOVIN' MY NEW SANCHEZ STICK, AND ALL IS WELL IN SURFALOTAPALOOZAVILLE!

2009-05-08T21:26:00.000-07:00

session#170...todays menu offered textured faces with a nasty crosschop- 3'-5', warmer waters, grayish windy sky's, harsh current and NO CROWD's...no complaints:)

CREATIVE DYNAMICS @ WORK!

2009-05-06T22:35:00.000-07:00

SESSION #166 OF 500...NEW BOARDS= NEW PEACE OF MIND...

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TOO MUCH TIME...

SESSION: #101-157...THE VALUE OF A SIMPLE LIFE...

2009-04-29T10:35:00.000-07:00

HOLY MOLY...

ONCE AGAIN, TIME HAS SLIPPED BY SO QUICKLY. IVE BEEN LOGGING MY SESSIONS VIA MOLE SKIN JOURNAL AND IVE SEEM TO HAVE HAD NO TIME TO POST ONLINE. IM NOT SLIPPIN' OR TRIPPIN' AS FAR AS LEGITIMATE TIME IN THE WATER SO KEEP IN MIND , THIS IS DEFINATLY REAL AND ACCURATE.

IVE MISSED A COUPLE DAYS BUT MADE UP FOR IT WITH MANY OTHER DOUBLE SESSION DAYS. IN THE LAST MONTH THERE HAS BEEN SOME FUN WAVES AND SOME VERY POOPY DAYS, BUT AT THE END OF EACH OF THOSE DAYS I STILL FIND SUCH APRECIATION AND LOVE FOR THE OCEAN AND JUST LIFE IN GENERAL.

THIS JOURNEY HAS BEEN AWSOME! THE LAST 4 MONTHS OF DOCUMENTING THIS HAS BEEN VERY EYE OPENING FOR ME. NOT LIFE CHANGING, BUT IT HELPED ME TO SLOW THINGS DOWN IN THE RIGHT PLACES AND MOVE FORWARD IN OTHER DIRECTIONS THAT I WOULDN'T OF IF I DIDNT HAVE SUCH A BIG PASSION FOR THE OCEAN AND HOW MANY WONDERFUL THINGS YOU GAIN FROM IT. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT HELPS YOU TAKE A DIFFERENT APPROACH AND VIEW TO LIFE ON LAND! THE DAILY GRIND GETS US DOWN AND HAS US FIGHTING FOR SURVIVAL, THUS SACRIFICING OUR FREE TIME AND ULTIMATELY DAMPENING OUR SPIRITS. AT LEAST UNTILL THE NEXT PASAGE OF FREEDOM TO THE OCEAN, OR WHATEVER YOUR OUTLET IS....MINE IS THE OCEAN, AND EVEN IF I DONT HAVE A BOARD, IT STILL SOOTHES ME AND CREATES AN AVENUE FOR MY PERSONAL SERENITY. I HOPE EVERYONE HAS A PLACE THAT THEY CAN ESCAPE FROM THE STRESS OF DAILY LIFE IN THIS BIG WORLD WE LIVE IN...

ANYWAY, TO THE SESSION POST'S:

IT'S NOW SESSION #157 NOT TOO MUCH TO SAY ABOUT THE PAST 56 SESSIONS. NO BIG SWELLS BUT NOT TOO MANY TOTALY FLAT DAYS EITHER, SO I GUESS YOU COULD SAY THAT ITS BEEN AVERAGE.

THE WATER GOT WARM FOR A COUPLE DAYS AND THEN IT GOT COLD AGAIN. WE HAD ONE OR TWO DAYS OF SUPER FUN SOUTHIES, BUT ALL IN ALL, I WOULDNT TRADE IT FOR ANYTHING!...EXCEPT MAYBE A ONE WAY TICKET TO AN ISLAND THE SOUTH PACIFIC, WITH PLENTY OF WAVES AND PLENTY OF FISH!... AND BEER!... AND FREINDS! AND...WELL, MAYBE I ALREADY LIVE IN PARADISE. YEP I DO!...LIVING, LOVING, LAUGHING AND SHARING IS WHAT MAKES MY PARADISE! ALL THE REST CAN BE ACCOMMODATED AT THE APPROPRIATE TIMES. FOR NOW, JUST SURFING EVERYDAY AND BEING HAPPY IS WHAT I AM THANKFUL FOR. MEETING NEW PEOPLE AND NETWORKING WITH PEOPLE THAT LIVE THE SAME WAY HELPS ME MOVE FORWARD IN MY AMBITION TO STAY FOCUSED ON THIS WAY OF LIFE...

SESSION: #100-124 OF 500...

2009-03-26T14:17:00.000-07:00

SO HERE IT IS, A NEW POSTING. ITS TAKEN ME LONG ENOUGH BUT I MUSTARD UP THE ENERGY TO POST!...

FIRST OFF, SESSION #100:

...IT WAS ACTUALLY A SPECIAL ONE. I VENTURED DOWN TO BLACKS ON A SINGLE FIN RETRO THAT I HAD REFURBISHED FOR MY FRIEND ED. NOT BAD FOR THE FIRST 100! IT WAS WORTH IT! 2-4 FT. AND NOT TOO CROWDED...TO SAY THE LEAST, THE BOARD WORKED GREAT!

SESSIONS #101-109:

NOTHING SPECIAL...LOCAL, SMALL...EH...

SESSION #110:

ODD...I WAS ENLISTED BY MY LOCAL SHOP OWNER TO TEST OUT A NEW BOARD TO SEE IF THEY WERE WORTH CARRYING IN THE SHOP...TO SAY THE LEAST THE BOARD WAS DIFFERENT. IT WAS A MEYERHOFFER DESIGNED LONGBOARD. SHAPED LIKE A FIGURE 8! IT WAS WEIRD LOOKING, BUT IT WAS ACTUALLY REALLY SICK! IF YOU COULD RIDE IT WITHOUT BEING DISTRACTED BY THE SHAPE, IT WAS AWSOME!...

SESSIONS #111-121:

AGAIN, NOTHING SPECIAL...I KEPT IT LOCAL BETWEEN GRANDVIEW AND ROUND HOUSE WITH THE OCCATIONAL BEACS IN THE MIX...

SESSION #122:

BONEYARDS!...WOO HOO! I LOVE THIS PLACE! I MISS LIVING NEAR THERE BECAUSE LAUREN AND I HAVE HAD SO MANY GREAT MEMORIES THERE. IT WAS NICE TO BE BACK OUT AT THE YARD...

SESSIONS #123-124:

BLAH BLAH...SAME SHIT DIFFERENT DAY, 2-3 FT., SPRING BREAK CROWD, A LITTLE WINDY BUT STILL NO COMPLAINTS!

ILL HAVE MORE COMING SOON, I WONT LET IT GET OUT OF HAND AGAIN, I HOPE!

SESSION: #93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, & 99 OF 500...THIS IS A LOT'A WORK!

2009-03-03T20:56:00.000-08:00

THIS IS MY SPEED BLOGGING POST!

IVE BEEN VERY BUSY,

SO HERE IT IS IN A NUT SHELL...

SESSION #99...FUN!

SESSION #98...FUN!

SESSION# 97...FUN!

SESSION #96...FUN!

SESSION #95...FUN!

SESSION #94...FUN!

SESSION #93...FUN!

FOR MORE INFO, STAT TUNED...

I WILL UDATE THESE POSTS WITH MORE DETAIL

AS I FREE UP SOME TIME.

SESSION: #92 OF 500

2009-02-27T18:23:00.001-08:00

LOCATION.................G. TO THE VIEW

WAVES....................REALLY FUN 3'+

WATER........................4X3...COLD

AIR...................... GREY, BUT CALM

PADDLE TIME......................7:45am

CO-PILOT.......................ED LEWIS

MAN O' MAN... ITS BEEN FUN THE LAST COUPLE OF DAYS! LOTS OF WAVES, GOOD DIRECTION, PEAKY, MINIMAL CROWDS...LOVE IT!

STILL MURKY GRANDVIEW ISSUES THOUGH...I STILL DONT KNOW THE DANGER OR HAZARD OF THE MUD STEW, BUT I CERTAINLY HOPE I DONT GET SICK BEFORE THEY DECIDE TO WARN US!!!!!!!!!

TIME FOR CHEM SUIT AND ORIFICE PLUGS, I THINK I'LL BORROW ED'S...J/K!

SESSION: #91 OF 500

2009-02-27T18:07:00.001-08:00

LOCATION.............BEACONS

WAVES...........SUPER FUN 3'-4'

WATER.........NO COMPLAINTS!

AIR............CLEAR & CLEAN

PADDLE TIME............3:20pm

CO-PILOT...............LUCAS FOSTER

WHAT A SICK SESSION!...I RODE MY LONG BOARD AGAIN AND PROCEEDED TO PICK OFF ALMOST EVERY SET, TO THE DISMAY OF THE SOUTH PEAK CROWD. I GAVE A CLINIC ON HOW TO RIDE A LONGBOARD LIKE A SHORT BOARD! THEY HATED IT!

...I DONT FEEL BAD THOUGH, EVERY OTHER DAY OF THE WEEK IM ON A 5'10 FIGHTING LOGGERS. SO TODAY, ALL "ISH" TALKERS THAT HOG WAVES ON OVERLY BOYANT OLD BARNEY TANKERS CAN TAKE A HIKE IF THEY DONT LIKE A TASTE OF THEIR OWN MEDICINE! IF YOU RIDE A LONG BOARD SHARE...OR IT WILL COME BACK TO BITE YOU!!!

SESSION: #90 OF 500

2009-02-26T11:16:00.000-08:00

W.T.F. IS THORIUM!?...

IS THAT YER' FINAL ANSWER?...

LOCATION..............GRAND SPEIW

WAVES.......................................2'-4'+

WATER....MUDDY ORANGE SILT

AIR.......................................CHILLY!

PADDLE TIME......................8:41am

CO-PILOT.......................................ED

WOO HOO!...WERE IN THE 90's!

100 IS GOING TO BE HERE BEFORE MARCH POSSIBLY!

FUN DAY AT G.VIEW, BOWLEY LITTLE INSIDERS WITH A COUPLE OF SETS THAT ROLLED THROUGH EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE. THE WATER WAS GROSS! ALL THE SAND DUMPING OR "REPLENISHING" AS THEY CALL IT HAS CAST A DARK ORANGE SILT INTO THE WATER MAKING IT LOOK AS IF IT WERE MUD! NOT COOL!...THEY SAY ITS FINE BUT I DONT KNOW HOW TRUE THAT REALLY IS. HAS ANYONE TESTED THIS STUFF?...HELLO?

SESSION: #89 OF 500

2009-02-26T11:06:00.000-08:00

LOCATION..........THE BEAC'S

WAVES..........................2'-3'+

WATER..........................NICE!

AIR.....................LIL' BREEZY

PADDLE TIME...........11:50am

CO-PILOT..........HANS SOLO

MID DAY SESSION AT BEAC'S...NO CROWD, PLENTY OF WAVES, AND...WELL I GUESS IT WAS JUST A BORING SESSION. NOT THAT I DONT APPRECIATE RELAXING AND HAVING A MELLOW SESSION, I DIDNT HAVE ANYTHING EVENTFUL HAPPEN...I DONT KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS, BUT MAYBE IT WAS TOO MELLOW...? IF THATS POSSIBLE...

SESSION: #88 OF 500

2009-02-26T10:58:00.000-08:00

LOCATION.............BEACONS

WAVES..........REALLY FUN!!!

WATER...............WHO CARES!

AIR................................WARM

PADDLE TIME...............2:40pm

CO-PILOT.......ME, MYSELF & I

I REALLY LOVE BEACONS SOME TIMES! IT CAN REALLY BE SO MUCH FUN! LONG RIDES, REFORMS, DOUBLE UPS! INSIDE, OUTSIDE, SOUTH PEAK, NORTH PEAK, BAMBOOS, SECRETS SOUTHIES...TODAY WAS ONE OF THOSE DAYS. JUST RIGHT. GOOD TIDE, SMALL BUT GOOD DIRECTION SWELL, SUNNY!...NO COMPLAINTS! JUST STOKED!!

SESSION: #87 OF 500

2009-02-26T10:50:00.000-08:00

WHAT'S YOUR LUCKY NUMBER?...

LOCATION.................G. VIEW

WAVES..............................1'-3'+

WATER.............................55-58?

AIR..............NICE AND SUNNY

PADDLE TIME..............10:50am

CO-PILOT..........................SOLO

ANOTHER DAY AT THE OFFICE...SOME SMALL WAVES, NOTHIN' SPECIAL. I JUST WORKED ON MY FIN SET UP AND WAS TRYING NEW SHTUFF...ALL IN ALL, IT WAS GOOD! THE SUN WAS OUT AND I WAS BASKING! I CANT WAIT TILL' SUMMER!!!!!!!

SESSION: #86 OF 500

2009-02-26T10:35:00.000-08:00

#86...ORDER UP READY TO GO...

LOCATION.....................GRANDVEIW

WAVES............................................-1'-2'

WATER.......COLD AND CROWDED!!!

AIR..........................................COLDER!

PADDLE TIME.........................6:49am

CO-PILOT..........................................ED

NOT MUCH TO SAY ABOUT THIS COLD, CROWDED, RUSHED AND FICLE SESSION. JUST CRAMMING ONE IN BEFORE I GO UP TO L.A. FOR FAMILY BUS. ALL I GOTTA SAY IS, NEXT TIME I'M BRINGIN' MY LOG!!!!!!!!!

SESSION: #85 OF 500...20 MIN. QUICKIE!

2009-02-21T19:10:00.001-08:00

RIGHT AFTER MY L.B. SESSION WITH LUCAS, I DECIDE TO GO HOME, KEEP MY WETSUIT ON, AND GRAB MY SHORTY FOR A G-VEIW SESSION WITH ED...IT WAS SHORT , SWEET, AND TO THE POINT. I SCORED A COUPLE OF LINED UP LEFTS, A ROUGE RIGHT OR TWO, AND DECIDED TO CALL IT...AS IT WAS STILL PLUMING WITH WEEKEND WARRIORS AND OTHER DEAD SAILOR FIBERGLASS JOCKEY'S...

SUNDAY SUNDAY...? WHAT WILL YOU HAVE FOR US?!

SESSION: #84 OF 500...LONGBOARDING 101

2009-02-21T18:40:00.000-08:00

LOCATION.............THE BEAC'S

WAVE ....................2-5+

TEMP...........COLD BUT SUNNY!

PADDLE TIME...................9:30am

CO-PILOT..........LUCAS FOSTER

ALL IN ALL ANOTHER CROWDED BUT "STILL STOKED TO BE A SURFER" SATURDAYDAY... MY SPECIAL GEUST CO-PILOT WAS NON OTHER THAN THE FAMOUS LUCAS FOSTER (13) OF LA COSTA CA. HE HAS DECIDED TO TAKE HIS SURFING TO THE NEXT STEP...

I TEACH ELITE SURF COACH LESSONS ON THE SIDE, AND LUCAS HAS JOINED UP WITH ME FOR THE NEXT TWO MONTHS TO PROGRESS HIS LONGBOARDING SKILLS, AND HOPEFULLY START WINNING SOME COMPETITIONS!

UNFORTUNATLY...THIS WAS WHAT THE CROWD SCENE LOOKED LIKE... =( ...OH WELL... STILL STOKED!!!!

...E...

SESSION: #83 OF 500

2009-02-20T19:05:00.000-08:00

LOCATION.......................................ROUNDHOUSE

WAVES........................................................2'-4'

WATER TEMP...................................NOT TOO BAD

AIR......................WARMER THAN THE WATER!!!

PADDLE TIME....................................3:10pm

CO-PILOT.....................................E.L.

WHAT A NICE WAY TO END THE WEEK! FRIDAY AFTERNOON DELIGHT SESSION...STILL RECOVERING FROM THE EGG TO SHORTBOARD TRANSITION, I MANAGED TO PICK OFF A COUPLE OF FUN WAVES.

I REALLY LOVE THE EVENINGS WE HAVE HAD IN THE LAST FEW MONTHS AND IT REALLY MAKES ME LOOK FORWARD EVEN MORE TO SUMMER! LONG DAYS FILLED WITH THE SMELL OF BBQ'S AND COCONUT OIL. PEELING SOUTHIES, TRUNKS @ 6am!...WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED!?

HOW MANY SESSIONS CAN WE SQEEZE IN ONE DAY...2...3...4!?...QUICK! GET THE ALOE, IM FRIED!...NO MORE FROZEN APPENDAGES, NO MORE BOOTIES....NO MORE WETSUITS! !!!!!WOOO HOOO!!!

OH WAIT...ITS STILL FEBUARY.

T-MINUS ~100 DAYS TILL SUMMER!!!!

SESSION: #82 OF 500...got egg?

2009-02-20T11:16:00.000-08:00

#82, OUT OF THE GATES AND RUNNING...TODAY WAS ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE!

LOCATION...............................BAMBOO'S

WAVES....................................................2-4

WATER..............COLD BUT ENJOYABLE

AIR...............................CLEAR AND BLUE

PADDLE TIME................................8:56am

CO-PILOT..........................MY GIRL LOLA

TODAYS INTEREST: THE WONDERFUL AND MARVELOUS EGG....

LATELY I HAVE BEEN SEEING A LOT OF EGGY STYLE BOARDS IN THE LEUCADIA ROTATION, EVERYTHING FROM BONZERS TO 5'0" FLAT DISKS TO 7'10" QUAD SPEED FREAK EGGS...THIS HAS PEEKED MY INTEREST.

SO I DECIDED TO BORROW A FRIENDS 6'8" PURE FUN AND THREW A 9'0" TURBO FIN (THE ONE WITH THE TUNNEL RAM SYSTEM) IN IT. IT WAS INTERESTING TO SAY THE LEAST, BUT A BLAST AT THE SAME TIME! IT FELT LIKE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. I COULD SCREAM DOWN THE LINE HANGIN SPEED 5, OR I COULD PUMP LONG DRAWN OUT TURNS OR EVEN WITH THE RIGHT LINED UP SECTIONS, I WAS ABLE TO PUNT A COUPLE NICE FRONT-SIDE GRAB AIRS...IT WASNT MY SHORT BOARD, BUT I STILL LOVED IT!

IM NOT PARTICULAR TO ANY BRAND OR SHAPER, I LIKE TO RIDE WHAT APEALS TO MY EYES AND USUALLY I CAN IDENTIFY ITS CHARACTERISTICS BEFORE SURFING IT.

WITH THAT BEING SAID, I REALLY AM BECOMING FOND OF THE OUT OF THE BOX STYLE SHAPES.

SHAPES LIKE THE HYDRODYNAMICA, WHICH IS SIMILAR TO A SHAPE THAT I SAW ABOUT 13-14 YEARS AGO SHAPED BY CHRIS NOONAN. ALSO THE COMPACT DISK SHORTIES...NOT SO MUCH THE WALDONS BUT JUST THAT STYLE. ALL OF THE RETRO QUADS ARE GREAT TOO! I TEND TO GRAVITATE TOWARDS THE FLAT WIDE DOUBLE ENDER STYLE , REAL SHORT AND FAT! THRUSTER, QUAD, TWINY OR SINGLE, IM STOKED TO TRY AS MANY AS I CAN!

GETTING BACK TO THE EGGS...WITH SO MANY STYLES AND FIN SET UPS AND OUTLINES AND THE HUGE RANGE OF VERSATILITY, YOU REALLY CANT GO WRONG! IT CAN GET BORING BUT IF REALLY GET LUCKY AND CONNECT WITH RIGHT BOARD ON THE RIGHT DAY, IT COULD PROVE TO BE A TRULY MAGICAL SESSION...

BUT ON THE OTHER HAND...I ALWAYS KEEP MY SHORTBOARD CLOSE BY!

SESSION: #81 OF 500

2009-02-19T11:23:00.000-08:00

ZEN-DIAGRAM...?

WELL...NOT TOO MUCH TO SAY ABOUT THIS SESSION. IT WAS SMALLER, INCONSISTENT AND BACKING OFF. MOST OF THEM AT LEAST...I DID HOWEVER MANAGE TO SWOOP IN ON A COUPLE OF SICK SOLO LEFTS THAT REELED ALL THE WAY, BUT THEN IT WAS 20-25MIN. BEFORE I SAW ANOTHER ONE...ALL IN ALL NO COMPLAINTS! AWSOME WEATHER, NO CROWDS, JUST A GOOD OL' FASHION DUNK IN THE POND!

A LITTLE TOO DEEP!...

SESSION: #80 OF 500

2009-02-18T13:54:00.001-08:00

WELL...WE BROKE INTO THE 80's. GREAT DAY FOR IT TOO! NICE WAVES, NICE WEATHER, GOT MY GIRL ON THE BEACH...LIFE IS GOOD!

LOCATION......................GRANDVIEW

WAVES...................................2-4+

WATER TEMP.....................~COLD

AIR TEMP................COLD W/ BLUE SKIES

WIND..................................0-5 KNTS

WEATHER....................GORGEOUS

PADDLE TIME.....................8:25

CO-PILOT...........................SOLO

SESSION: #79 OF 500

2009-02-17T11:39:00.000-08:00

LOCATION..........................GRANDVIEW

WAVES................................3-5'+

WATER TEMP....................COLD

AIR TEMP...........................COLDER

WIND.................................CRISP BUT LIGHT

PADDLE TIME......................8:41 am

CO-PILOT............................ED LEWIS

LEFTOVER STORM SURF THAT ACTUALLY HAD SOME CLEAN FACES AND REALLY FUN STEEP DROPS. ED AND I PROCEEDED TO PICK OFF AS MANY AS WE LIKED, THERE WAS AN ABUNDANCE OF SETS AND NO CROWD FOR MILES! ILL TAKE THIS TYPE OF SURF ANYDAY!...

SESSION: #78 OF 500

2009-02-16T19:49:00.000-08:00

S T O R M S U R F!...WOO HOO!...

WOW, WHAT A COOL SESSION! THIS PIC REPRESENTS HOW IT FELT. IM SURE THATS NOT WHAT IT LOOKED LIKE BUT IT WAS CLOSE!

ALL ALONE, I PADDLED OUT...I PUT ASIDE MY INSTINCTUAL FEARS OF SURVIVAL AND MANAGED TO HAVE SUCH AN ADRENALINE SESSION. THE PADDLE SUCKED! BUT ONCE I MADE IT OUT THERE WAS DEFINATLY SOME SICK WAVES TO BE HAD, I RODE AN 8' McTAVISH AND CAUGHT A COUPLE OF SET WAVES. RAINY, WINDY, AND STILL I HAD A BLAST. I GUESS I SEE IT AS A CHALLENGE NOW, SURFING IN EXTREME WEATHER!...? WELL AT LEAST IT WASNT BORING...

THIS WOULD BE SESSION # 78 SINCE DEC. 27, ACCORDING TO MY CALCULATIONS...STILL ON TRACK FOR 500 IN 09. (SUMMER IS MUCH MORE PRODUCTIVE!)

POSTING FOR A RAINY DAY...DOESNT MEAN IM NOT GONNA SURF!

2009-02-16T09:11:00.000-08:00

SESSION: #77 OF 500

AWSOME!...ANOTHER RAINY DAY. WELL AT LEAST WE CAN USE IT RATHER THAN IT BEING AN ABUNDANCE, JUST HOPE IT DOESNT TOTALLY POOR DOWN.

THIS WONT STOP ME FROM SURFING! IM ON A MISSION! THAT MISSION IS TO SURF AT LEAST 500 SESSIONS THIS YEAR! YES, I SAID 500 TIMES! IT HAS BEEN AN INTERESTING START ALREADY. A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO WHEN WE HAD SOME SERIOUS RAIN, I WAS OUT THERE. TORRENTIAL DOWN POORING, AND GUSTY WINDS HAD MY GOOD FRIEND ED AND I TRIPPING OUT! IT WAS SUCH AN INTERESTING FEELING, SURFING IN SUCH HEAVY RAIN. IT DID HOWEVER MAKE FOR SOME GOOD SURFING, BELIEVE IT OR NOT! THE RAIN SETTLED EVERYTHING DOWN, NO BIG CHOPS AND FOR A FEW MOMENTS AT A TIME, THERE WERE SOME BIG DECENT FACED WAVES. BUT AS SOON AS THE RAIN LET UP THE WINDS TOOK OVER AND MIXED IT ALL UP AGAIN. IN THE END IT WAS ALL WORTH IT! AT LEAST FOR ME...KUDOES TO ED FOR LETTING ME DRAG HIM OUT THERE.

IM NOT A BIG FAN OF THE 150MPH WINDS EITHER...THOSE DAYS WHEN YOU CANT EVEN WALK IN A STRAIGHT LINE. BUT, YET AGAIN I PUT MYSELF IN THIS SITUATION. AS I WALK DOWN THE STAIRS HOLDING ON TO MY FEATHERY 2 POUND BOARD FOR DEAR LIFE, I FIND A SECOND WIND OF MOTIVATION. JUST THE SHEER THRILL OF BEING SUCH A SMALL INANIMATE OBJECT IN THE PACIFIC. NO ONE IN SITE FOR MILES, EVEN ON THE BEACH. BUT IM DEFINATLY NOT ALONE!...IM JUST UNAWARE OF WHAT IS UNDERNEATH...BUT STILL, NO REGRETS!

IVE NOW COME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT THERE IS AN INNER FIRE THAT IS PUSHING ME TO OVERCOME MY FEARS...LIFE IS WAY TOO SHORT AND IF WE DONT FOLLOW OUR HEARTS, THAN OUR DREAMS JUST REMAIN DREAMS AND EVERYTHING ELSE SEEMS BLAND. ON THE OTHER HAND IF WE DO TEST OUR LIMITS AND STEP UP TO THE PLATE, IT BRINGS THE FEELING OF BEING ALIVE!!! IVE HEARD PEOPLE SAY THIS BEFORE BUT ONLY RECENTLY DOES IT RING TRUE. WOW! WHAT A FEELING!

FOR ME, THE EXPERIENCE OF FEAR IS WHAT KEEPS ME YOUNG AND ON MY TOES! IT MAY SOUND WEIRD, BUT I DONT KNOW HOW TO EXPLAIN IT ANY OTHER WAY...DOING THINGS THAT MOST PEOPLE LABEL AS A WASTE OF TIME OR TOO DANGEROUS IS WHAT MAKES ME TICK! IM NOT STUPID, I JUST LIKE TO TAKE CALCULATED RISKS ALONG WITH MY DOSE OF DAILY LIFE!

JUST REMEMBER, IF LIFE HAS NO CONTRAST, PAIN OR PLEASURE, GOOD OR BAD, FEAR OR COMFORT...THAN HOW DO WE GROW AS INDIVIDUALS AND EXPERIENCE LIFE?...

ALL COMMENTS WELCOME ON THIS ONE! =)

SESSION: #76 OF 500... WIND'N SEA

2009-02-15T18:43:00.000-08:00

SOMETIMES STEPPING OUT OF YOUR COMFORT LEVEL OR AWAY FROM YOUR REGULAR COZY HOME BREAK CAN BRING THINGS TO THE SURFACE...IT MAKES YOU REALIZE THE COMPOSED BALANCE THAT THE UNIVERSE UNRAVELS EACH AND EVERY DAY.

I DONT TRAVEL AS MUCH AS I WOULD LIKE TO, BUT I HAVE ALWAYS FOUND A COMFORT IN FAMILIARITY. HOWEVER LATELY I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO A LEAST SEARCH OUT MY LOCAL GEMS, REGARDLESS OF MY SURF SPECIFIC AGORAPHOBIA...JUST KIDDING.

I TEND TO SEARCH THE SOLO PEAKS, SO WHEN I VENTURED TO BLACKS, SEASIDE, WIND'N SEA, PONTO, PISMO AND H.B. AND OTHER ICONIC SOCAL SPOTS, I FELT SOMETHING INSIDE CHANGE. ALMOST EUPHORIC IN JUST THE LEVEL OF POSITIVETY I PROJECTED TO THE UNIVERSE IN ORDER TO VOID THE NEGO-CROWD VIBES THAT USUALLY GET ME BUMMED...IT WORKED! AND I FOUND THAT GROM FEELING AGAIN. SO STOKED TO SURF SOMETHING NEW...BUT ITS NOT... ITS BEEN THERE ALL ALONG. I GUESS I AM JUST FIGURING THIS ONE OUT...

A LITTLE HUMBLE PIE...

2009-01-11T09:25:00.000-08:00

THIS GUY IS AMAZING! I MET HIM AT A CONTEST IN O-SIDE, HE WAS KILLING IT ON HIS KNEE BOARD. ONE FOOTED AND PUTTING ON HIS WETSUIT AT 5:45am, HE WAS JAMMIN' OUT TO ZEPLIN ON HIS CAR RADIO, WITH MORE STOKE AND INSPIRATION THAN MOST FROTHING GROMMIE'S, HE PROCEEDED TO PADDLE OUT...54 DEGREES, HOWLING OFFSHORE, DAWN IS RISING AND HE IS THE FIRST ONE OUT! THE FIRST SHOT IS AFTER HIS SESSION...THE OTHERS WERE WHEN IT WAS LIGHT ENOUGH TO SHOOT...

HOLA!...MANY SESSION ARE COMING!...500 TO BE EXACT!

2009-01-07T20:04:00.000-08:00

THIS IS MY FIRST POSTING...IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE?...IF YOU ARE READING THIS, THAN THE ANSWER WOULD BE YES!...WELCOME! THIS IS A BLOG ABOUT ME IN MY DAILY LIFE AND THE PASSIONS THAT SURROUND ME... ART, THE OCEAN, AND EVERYTHING THAT COMPOSES MY EXPRESSIONS... JUST A COUPLE SHOTS...

MY TRANSLATION OF SURFING...

REMEMBERING WHERE IT ALL CAME FROM...

FRONTSIDE REVERSE...ALMOST INVERTED

BACKSIDE @ AVO